Hello everyone. I have a question regarding my honeywell 3 port valve. My hot water works but heating doesnt. If i manually move the valve lever the heating fires up. When i let go of the lever it moves back to the middle and heating goes off. If i wedge it in place the heating comes on and stays on. So I guess my 10 year plus valve is kack. Do I need to change the whole motorised valve or could it be just the motor that's faulty. I assume when I turn heating on this lever is pulled across by magnetism to flick the microswitch so not sure. Im good with electronics but never dealt with my heating system. I can confirm the boiler programmer thermostat and pump all work ok.
is my 3 port motorised valve faulty
- Thread starter ptek2004
- Start date
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It could be the motor or a loose/broken connection somewhere.
No. The motor moves it.
How have you tested these?
Could be the programmer or room stat too, or the wiring.
It's probably the motor.
They can be replaced if you can be bothered, the item is most likely this: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p68222
On most valves a replacement head / actuator can be purchased, which is far easier than fitting a new motor into the existing one, which may well have other issues aside from the failed motor.
They can be replaced if you can be bothered, the item is most likely this: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p68222
On most valves a replacement head / actuator can be purchased, which is far easier than fitting a new motor into the existing one, which may well have other issues aside from the failed motor.
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Yeah just change the head.
Thanks for the replys. I checked wiring from stat and programmer and and happy with those plus it all works when i push the lever hard over. I will strip the head down tomorrow and see what I find. Wasn't sure what the lever does when if working correctly. When heating is on should it move over and stay over whilst heating is turned on?
Yes, while the stat requests the heating on.
If hot water and heating is required (as per the stats) then the lever should be in the middle.
When the heating is on and stat requesting heating on, you could put an neon screwdriver on the orange wire terminal block. If it lights its a good sign the wiring and controls (other than the motorised valve is ok) /hides
Or use a DVM if you have one on volts ~
Put probes on orange & blue wires. Should get 240V
There is a sort of groove that the lever sits in to temporary lock it over rather than wedge it, you push the lever over then move it either up or down into the groove, then let the spring pull it back slightly to seat it in the groove.
To release it push it over again and the lever springs out and returns
Thanks again. I have put dvm on orange and blue wires and have 240v
As for the lever if i lock it in place the heating will not work so if i push it a little harder it comes on. Hence the wedge. If it moves back just a little the heating fails
Yeah they are designed to do that.
The lever is for system drain/fill and not to activate the micro switch/boiler
The lever is for system drain/fill and not to activate the micro switch/boiler
I have 240 between when probe white and brown wire with dvm. When i move the lever hard to turn heating on voltage drops to 0 between the two
Whoops. That should have been white and blue.
I guess your wedge was in place when you got 250v on orange.
Just probed the syncron motor and when heating turn on i have 240v but no noise or movement from motor when turn off 0 volts when i force the lever over to fire the boiler the 2 blues are still 240 so I guess the motor is screwed. Do I replace motor which looks easy or the whole head as its an old unit
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