Is there a recommended max length of flex to storage heater?

[paull01]

I have a storage heater (large with bricks) and I'm intending to move to the opposite side of a room. As the cable routing back to the fusebox is quite long it seems to be a lot easier if I just replace the flex from the switch to the heater.

This means the switch will be in one corner of the room and the heater will be on the opposite side of the room connected by 6m of appropriate flex (3-core, 85 degree etc.)

Does anyone know if this is likely to cause any problems?

Many thanks

 

[RF Lighting]

Yes. You need an isolator local to the heater.

If you can manage to get a flex to the new heater position, then why can't you get a cable there?

 

[BigJon]

You could join the cable in a FCU or suitable box and take it to your new heater and fit your D.P. switch there, granted this is not the best thing to do in practice but as RF said above, you will need local isolation.
I presume your clipping a flex round the skirting, this being the reason you cant re-route the existing cable?

 

[Taylortwocities]

You did not mention the csa of the "appropriate flex"
Must meet criterea for voltage drop & current carrying other wise you will either have
a) a heater that doesn't heat up enough
or
b) a cable that turns itself into a fire

TTC

 

[paull01]

Hi Guy, thanks for the response

I could rewire the cable instead of the flex but this is currently going through a number of rooms (through enclosed boxing) so it would be vastly easier to replace keep the isolation switch where it is, move the heater (approx 6 metres) and wire with a new flex. This is not ideal as I would have a switch in the opposite corner of the room to the heater but seems the easiest option.
I was intending to use standard 85 degree 3-core flex.

Cheers

 

[bernardgreen]

I would strongly advice NOT extending the flex but instead extending the cable to a new isolator next to the heater and use the existing flex. The cable can be surface mounted in a "protective" trunking, this is not ideal but far safer than a flexible cable.

Depending on the heater you may need flex that is able to withstand temperatures higher than 85 deg. ( over heat fault condition in the heater ) and remains "flexible" for the life time of the heater. That could be more expensive than running the necessary size of cable in trunking.

Have you ensured the floor is stronger enough for the weight of the heater in its new location.

 

[paull01]

Thanks for the response Berhard,

The floor is strong enough as it is all concrete flooring. I'm getting the feeling though that it is best to get a professional in to do the job - it seems extending the cable is going to be the best option...

Many thanks