That's a nice consumer unit, I like that when the cover is removed the sides are as well for better access. What brand is it? I can't make out the logo. Lucy? There is a blank missing also.
Is this CU still alright, usable?
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The neutral and earth terminals are very much like the ones found in old Crabtree boards but they are not C50 mcbs and not aware of any other Crabtree ones that colour
Eric thinks its Dorman smith loadmaster
Looks like Lupus Midget, come across them once before tried and failed to find any info on the characteristics of the devices. They do not appear to have indication on which type under BS3871 they are (even though I am lead to believe that BS3871 required this to be indicated) without this one would have to assume worst case, which would be type 4 (this isn't unreasonable, there are boards out there, installed when MCBS first came out, that are full of type 4s because thats all that was available for some makes of board back then) in which case a 30A circuit will fail on max zs using the generic type 4 fiqures (you normally have to consult manufacturer data for type 4 time/current characteristics - I have a folder of such data for things like federal stab-loks, square D QO and dorman smith loadmaster, etc
So in my eyes, not unreasonable to need to swap the board out to one where the characteristics of the devices can actually be assertained before installing a new circuit, otherwise how are you to verifiy the new circuit complies with BS7671 in terms on disconnection times.
Unless
So in my eyes, not unreasonable to need to swap the board out to one where the characteristics of the devices can actually be assertained before installing a new circuit, otherwise how are you to verifiy the new circuit complies with BS7671 in terms on disconnection times.
Unless
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There may be a DP isolator on the tails that is out of shot.
Adam
I remember changing a similar board to this one which only had a number on the front of the breaker, but when removing them, I found a load of other information moulded into the side of the breakers.
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Then an isolator should not be operated under load, except in an emergency
I am struggling to work out how they connect, i cannot see any top connections and the reds seem to be at the bottom
You can see the busbar finger at the top of the spare way, I assume the breaker slides down onto it and then the screw clamps it.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LUPUS-MI...939821?hash=item2ccb7406ed:g:yv0AAOSw~jNZZRML
Echo you have good eyesite reading Lucy on it, you were half right.
Looking at the pics as Adam says theres not much info on the side, Made in Manchester
Echo you have good eyesite reading Lucy on it, you were half right.
Looking at the pics as Adam says theres not much info on the side, Made in Manchester
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Thanks for all the interest, guys! Mixed opinions, then, but a second local spark is refusing to touch it, indeed saying that whoever told me it's ok should be reported to trading standards, haha!
I will try to look for a brand name this evening to satisfy your curiosity about it.
I will try to look for a brand name this evening to satisfy your curiosity about it.
I think that most, if not all, 'isolators' available these days are actually rated to be able to safely break their full load.Then an isolator should not be operated under load, except in an emergency
If one has one which is not so rated, it's not really appropriate/'safe' to use it as an emergency switch!
Kind Regards, John
Yes i reckon your right, as you imply I dont think that was always the case.
I will refrain from saying that again.
It maybe different in industrial environments, but in domestic and commercial ones I think it would be unrealistic to assume that an 'isolator' would not be operated on-load 'in an emergency', so I think it makes sense for all small/medium-sized isolators available now to be capable of coping with that safely.
However, as you say, there are no guarantees as regards some of the devices which may have been in service for some time.
Kind Regards, John
While you could have a new circuit added to that CU, you would strongly be advised to upgrade that CU for a new one.
Indeed.
But I would advise not by the sort of person who says "In order for me to sign off the cooker circuit you’ll need to upgrade the consumer unit."
But I would advise not by the sort of person who says "In order for me to sign off the cooker circuit you’ll need to upgrade the consumer unit."
That's two sparkys so far, I will speak to one more but then have to conclude that in real life no one will touch it!
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