Is this easy- shall I have a go? Leak repair CH. 22mm

[Safety First]

Question is:
Shall I drain the system, heat the spurring t and try to remove it?

I have soldered pipe before...
I can refill the system, add inhibitor and bleed the

Not sure what I am getting into with the fiddly business of getting the T out. Perhaps cut out a section and put two couplers above and below?



Why/how...?
While routing some cables I drilled through a timber and found an old mircrobore spur that was capped and unused. About 6 inches coming off the 22mm T. The pipe had been bend out of shape to cram it into the tiny space, so the pipe was all out of shape and bugger to get to..

I bodged a milliput fix for the weekend, but this is weeping very slowly now that the system is re pressurised.

I didn't install this lot!

 

[oldbuffer]

I'd drain the pipe with the offending Tee in it. Then:
1. Remove all traces of Milliput, and solder a cap over the microbore pipe stub. OR
2. Cut through the Tee just above and just below the microbore outlet, making sure the cut was straight. Sweat off the remaining parts of the Tee and replace with a slip coupling. A slip coupling has no ridge in the middle, so you have to mark the pipes above and below, slide it onto one side, then "slip" it up or down onto the other, making sure you have about the same on both sides.

Otherwise,

 

[Safety First]

Ah, thanks Oldbuffer, I never even thought of soldering onto the microbore. I didn't have solder end caps at home and had to fix/bodge it with what was to hand.

I fancied making the milliput much neater and had began cutting through the microbore but stopped as figured I'd be sending copper fillings into the system. Does that matter?

I guess if the milliput cracks and gives up easily, I might try the soldering.

Anyway, I can drain the system from the drain cock on the return side, but my solder will be on the flow side. Will the solder work into a cap end like that?

Thanks again..