Is this mortar lime?

[Scarophion]

Lime mortar is a 3:1 sand to lime mix, applied exactly the same as a S&C mix - where's the difficulty for any tradesperson?

I've spoke to a couple of rendering guys and they don't seem to get that I don't want it re-rendered with cement rendering. Which brings me to a few more questions:

• The builder who has taken the render off the back insists that the K Rend silicon product he uses is "breathable". Does that mean it will be suitable for this Victorian terrace?
• He says that I won't need to repoint as the render will go in the joints. Is that all right?
• The mortar mix (I need to repoint the outhouse) is 1:3 sand but I can't find a forum or blog post that agrees on what sort of sand. Some say normal builders sand and some say sharp. I'm not sure what to go with? I'm not fussed about matching with the existing (ash) stuff as we're redoing the lot.

I would have expected to see far more movement in the brickwork and severe deflection of the plastic windows if there was no lintel.

Thanks wessex, I'll check it out.

Thanks again for the useful replies!

 

[vinn]

K Rend and other modern renders have good reports - there are guys in the plasterers forum well versed in using them. They will be suitable for your house.

Depends on whether you are firming up the wall or simply leaving a key for the render.

Any sand.

 

[Scarophion]

Hello,

The render has been taken off the front and it's in a much better state than the back:

Again, the widened windows are relying on the original outer brick arches and inner wooden lintels.
You asked for a picture of the inside:

The mortar is very powdery and there are a lot if cracked bricks. There seem to have been some repairs. Some with cement. At the ceiling, the wall is leaning in. This is on the first floor.

When finding a builder for any remedial works, should I insist on him/her using lime instead of cement?
Do you think I need a structural engineer?

 

[vinn]

The walls were originally built with lime mortar so any pointing, inside or outside, would be best in lime mortar but cement mortar is no big deal.
Any raking out & re-pointing would firm up the walls.
The interior "plastering" on outside walls should be in lime render, and the exterior in a modern synthetic render.
Whats happening with the gable render?
In the last pic, which wall is leaning: the gable wall or the wall with the window? The chimney breast is buttressing the gable wall.
Have the chimney flues been swept & smoke tested?

The gable chimney stack needs attention - the flaunching looks to be perished.
The slate roof cover seems reasonable for the age.
Has the loft area been inspected - anything that looks odd is usually odd, and needs attention.

Your house is on a hillside sloping from L to R & Front to rear. You go down steps at the front and up steps at the rear. This might have some bearing on any leaning or cracking, and the parting at the rear outrigger.
Your neighbour has front ventilation/air brick(s?) and you have none - in the front area has the joisting been inspected for rot or condensation?

Do you have a yard gulley below the kitchen window?

 

[Scarophion]

Hello Vinn and thanks for your reply.

In terms of the gable end, it will probably have to wait until the following year as this stuff ain't cheap :/

The leaning wall is the front wall. Bricks are sticking out by about an inch. You couldn't tell from the outside though:


Chimney
Not sure if it is butressing the wall because it doesn't go all the way to the ground? The chimney comes up from the ground floor, then goes at right angles over the alleyway and carries on up.
Here's a slightly alarming picture of the chimney over the alleyway:

Chimney flues have not been swept yet because we're not sure what we're doing with them. The ground floor one is bricked up (no air brick!).

Loft
At the top if the gable end it goes down to a single skin and the previous owner/idiot has repointed with expanding foam.... yeah. I'm going to sort it out once I've removed the 3ft mound of glass wool in the way..


The surveyor did not inspect the floor joists. There was a clause about removing floof coverings. It was a full building survey.
There is a yard gulley below the kitchen window.

Thanks again

 

[vinn]

The top of the gable is a triangle known as the Pike.
The pike was usually built with "single brick skin" - it often becomes unstable, & its been a cause for concern in many older properties.
Removing the render from the gable - no need to re-render until funds go up - but exposing the brickwork will give an exposed view of whats what.
The "projecting" bricks in the front bedroom look as though they were built in that way.

I've never previously seen a chimney breast built like that, dont yourselves, as DIY'ers even touch it.
Whatever you decide ref c/breasts leave to professionals.

What is that dark mass just below the ridge on the loft interior pike pic?
Check that the rafters/joists & wall plates are tied in together.

How do you propose to tie-in or rebuild the rear outrigger to the main house?

Access from the rear or cutting a new hatch at the front floor is needed for any inspection - the sub-area must be checked out.

As I suggested, you would do well to get a SE's view - write down everything they say while they are on site. During the initial telephone heads up you could refer her or him to this thread. But you should have a list of your concerns at hand if a SE visits.

Clean out the trap in the yard gulley.

 

[Scarophion]

You know an awful lot vinn!

Would it be wise (after getting rid of the expanding foam) to build the 'pike' to be a double skin, even though it won't have 'header' bricks?

Removing the render from the gable - no need to re-render until funds go up - but exposing the brickwork will give an exposed view of whats what.

Will it matter much that the exposed bricks aren't as weather proof because the facing is damaged? I can leave it that way for a while?

I've never previously seen a chimney breast built like that, dont yourselves, as DIY'ers even touch it.
Whatever you decide ref c/breasts leave to professionals.

I'm sad I can't fix it myself but that's probably sensible.

How do you propose to tie-in or rebuild the rear outrigger to the main house?

Do you mean the outhouse with the toilet in?

As I suggested, you would do well to get a SE's view.

I think that's wise but I'm disappointed as we paid for a full building survey before we bought and now it seems we'll need another! Would I need a full survey again or just get a guy in to look at specific things?

Thanks for your help.

 

[vinn]

Wait for the SE's opinion on what to do with the pike and the chimney breast - structurally they go hand in hand.

Removing the gable render will expose the brickwork for the SE - but your call. Ask the SE on the initial phone call - tell her or him your money situation.
Nothing serious will happen with raw exposed b/work on that gable - it could be left for a year or two.

Yes, the outhouse. Its possibly moving due to Differential Subsidence but the structural
cause needs eyes on site.
Where's the nearest manhole at the rear of the property?

A structural engineer is a different animal to a mortgage surveyor or the average RICS surveyor.
Make a list and discuss items, and his fee's over the phone.
You dont need a full survey, you need a structural survey - they are different surveys.



FWIW: its been obvious from your posts that the "Full Survey" was, like so many FS's, more or less useless.
Many mortgage surveys are almost criminal, & the worst is that they often tend to refer you to even shadier criminals & fraudsters: The damp and timber crew.