Is this oak timber acceptable?

[Tim 72]

Hello everyone. I recently bought some rough sawn oak planks to make a tabletop out of,having given them an initial sanding 3 of the planks are fine but the third has got 2 dark marks across the width of it on both sides....please see attached photos.
i m not an experienced timber buyer so could anyone give me their opinion whether this is acceptable.

Many Thanks.

Untitled

• Tim 72
• 15 Jun 2014
• 1

Untitled

• Tim 72
• 15 Jun 2014
• 1

Untitled

• Tim 72
• 15 Jun 2014
• 1

 

[Norcon]

Those look like low spots the sander has not reached. So yes I'd say acceptable.

The first process for rough sawn timber is the surface planer, then run them through the thicknesser.

Then you have nice straight boards to work with. A local machine shop would probably do this for you.
Some hardwood suppliers offer the service also.

 

[foxhole]

If this is green oak it will require months of seasoning, warping and splitting may occur.

 

[Dave54]

The marks are just from it being "in stick" from the battens used to separate the boards. As already said they will plane out.
Looks like sapwood on the near edge of the top board (and others). That will need to be sawn off. It's soft, different to the heartwood in colour and texture, and won't finish well. It's not used for furniture normally. If you need a particular width with hardwood like oak, then you need to specify a clear width.

 

[Tim 72]

Thanks for all the replies....as you all thought with further sanding the marks have come out. regarding the sapwood i asked for some to be left on as i liked the contrast beside the rest of the wood. Hope it ll be ok !

I ve been told its been seasoned for 5 years.

 

[AronSearle]

Sapwood is as strong as the heartwood, it however is susceptible to fungus or insect attack which can make it soft or cause discolouration, but this can be easily prevented.

 

[Tim 72]

I was going to treat with oil or wax, would this protect the sapwood enough?

 

[maltaron]

I find raw linseed oil good for treating oak. One other tip, don't use any steel fixings or the oak will "blue". Use brass screws and fittings.

 

[AronSearle]

I was going to treat with oil or wax, would this protect the sapwood enough?

Those are finishes not preservatives.

If the oak is already dry and remains dry, fungal attack is not an issue.

Oak sapwood is high in starch which attracts powder post beetle, the starch takes about 10-15 years to deplete.

A finish will help prevent this beetle attack (in that the beetle doesn't "see" the oak underneath the finish).

There is some risk the oak may already have larvae inside the sapwood, brush on preservative wont kill it, but will stop it getting to bad (they die when they hit the surface treatment zone).

I find raw linseed oil good for treating oak. One other tip, don't use any steel fixings or the oak will "blue". Use brass screws and fittings.

Iron staining only occurs in conjunction with moisture, should be fine if it is dry and internal.

But yes, brass or stainless steel will avoid this issue.