Is top entry by SWA CW into Masterseal acceptable?

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Is top entry by SWA CW into Masterseal acceptable?

Bottom drain hole drilled. Bottom/side exit also in SWA. North facing wall, outside, end of a long cable run. Piranha obviously re plastic enclosure.

Yes an SWA gland is IP68, but as far as I know it is a no-no because a) shroud is not waterproof and b) water will accumulate in the gland seal. It is certainly not Best Practice even if the regs (do) appear to permit it.

Thus it needs to be redone if at all practicable?
 
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Unless the gland specifically states that it is not waterproof in this orientation, I can think of nothing to stop you installing it with the cable exiting vertically upwards. I'd agree with you that it should be avoided where possible, but sometimes this isn't practical, and I (and I'm sure others too) see a lot of glands installed in this manner.

If the shroud is cut to fit tightly around the cable then the risk of water coming into contact with the gland should be minimal, at least until the material the shroud is made from starts to break down due to weathering.
 
Interesting.
I'll ask CMP out of curiosity as to what they say re their CW glands.

One alternative.
Fit a "HV rain disc" around the cable higher up.
So preventing water travelling along the cable & into the gland.
 
CMP say their glands are ok for top-entry if...
- Shroud fitted & close-cut to cable sheath
- Sealing washer between gland & enclosure

I suggested adding an EPDM rubber disc further up the cable to prevent water tracking and they agreed that would be an excellent idea.

Workable at least.
 
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It may be best to opt for no shroud due to potential build-up of water and moisture inside the shroud and around the gland (long term issue) and fit an IP sealing washer between the gland face and Masterseal box.

As long as the cable is terminated properly - no SWA braids showing through the top of the compression nut and the compression nut itself isn't over tightened (very common mistake) then I can't see why the IP of the Masterseal box will at risk.
 
I like to use a couple of turns of self-amalgamating tape where the shroud meets the cable when doing this.
 
Thanks GaryMo...

I'm going to change it to bottom entry.

I was reluctant to change anything re aesthetics of the wall.
However I have a spare matching brick and am going to cut one brick out & replace it, move the masterseal along to create space for bottom entry. The old SWA cleat holes can be filled with matched mortar dye or with mortar from around the removed brick.

It is near the front, very visible and the SWA run is badly done anyway.
 
I've only just come online, and guess what the first post I read was :LOL:
 
Brick out & replaced, only took a few minutes, stuff moved.

Amusingly, I did a search for pyro before posting :)

Pyro is still unmatched for being so discrete - it is not just the cable, but the clips - form follows function. Looks superb for outside lighting, no festooning, crisp bends, proportional glands.

The problem is the tooling - sold mine in 1988.
 
Went to look at a job this week two 30 metre, runs of bare 2L 2.5 surface clipped to exposed wood beams in a listed pub.

Rf i will put your name down.
 

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