Is using the switch as a junction considered good practice?

[sparkwright]

If you're having a standard 4 gang switch an experienced electrician will manage with a 25 mm box.

 

[shockfreesince93]

I'll certainly give it a go, but as RF Lighting pointed out I'm not sure I'ld describe myself as an experienced electrician.

Time to hit the bottle and forget about it for now.
Thanks again.

 

[shockfreesince93]

Untitled

• shockfreesince93
• 25 Nov 2012
• 1

Added in common links

 

[Spark123]

You missed some links out in the 2g1w switches

 

[shockfreesince93]

Assume you mean hook up the commons. Image editted. Thanks
Does this mean the rest looks ok. Nothing I can do about where the cables run to and from, but can you see anything else in how I've wired the sockets?

 

[shockfreesince93]

editted

• shockfreesince93
• 25 Nov 2012
• 1

Joined up commons

 

[phatboy]

Another reason that there are now often neutrals at the switch point is the fancy dimmers sometimes require them for back-lights etc.

I prefer this method, find it easier to work out! And if you need to add an extra switch to a box, you can just run one extra t&e in, and not have to try and get to the existing ceiling rose to get the neutral

 

[Scoby_Beasley]

Another reason that there are now often neutrals at the switch point is the fancy dimmers sometimes require them for back-lights etc.

Also if you decide to get fancy/lazy and fit remote controlled lighting then the module (switch/dimmer) requires a neutral.

 

[Chri5]

All 25mm back boxes I'm affraid. Might have to hack the 4 switch out and replace the box, but a shame to mess up my new plastering. Think I'll get away with the others. cheers

Watch out for flat plate fittings. By having a flat plate the back side of it containing the terminals and switch mech, have more depth.

You have to be pretty neat to squeeze all of it in, the more depth the better. Proud fittings such as standard plastic switches will be fine.