Jammed stop cock

[mroshaw]

We have a low flow rate from the kitchen and outside taps. We thought perhaps the internal stop cock was not fully opened so went to check. The stop cock is completely jammed - no movement either way!

Any advice on getting it unstuck? Have sprayed some WD40 into it, tapped with a hammer but getting nowhere.

We're a bit concerned as I discussed recently over the phone with a plumber who said that as the stop cock was quite inaccessible (in the corner of the kitchen, in a cut out corner of a cabinet) he wouldn't touch it - said we'd best wait until we had the kitchen redone!

Your thoughts, as ever, are greatly appreciated!

 

[twgas]

make proper access, then find the shut off outside, change the stop cock.

 

[landyandy]

make proper access, then find the shut off outside, change the stop cock.

Ditto

 

[stardanny]

Have you tried unscrew gland nut and spray wd40 inside shaft collar? Some time leaving for a hour will loosen it up.

Dan

 

[mroshaw]

make proper access

I think this is where the problem lies! Quite why the previous owners didn't have the stop cock relocated when they fitted the kitchen, I don't know. I should be able to invoice them for any work that needs done!

As it is, got a plumber coming round next week with license to hack the hell out of the inside of the kitchen units. Rather that than not be able to turn off the water in a hurry.

 

[mroshaw]

Have you tried unscrew gland nut and spray wd40 inside shaft collar?

I haven't and I wouldn't know a gland nut if it kicked me in the, well, gland nuts.

Would you be able to describe the process in a bit more detail so that I can give it a try?

Thank you!

 

[ChrisR]

The number one danger with inaccessible stop cocks is that you can get leaks if you force the body of the thing against the pipes. That's a big problem if the pipes are LEAD. Have a look.

The gland nut is round the spindle of the tap. Its purpose is to compress something which would originally have been waxed string, rubber, or similar, to seal the water in.

Designs vary a bit, but here's a gland nut undone completely, (which you don't need to do). Often just loosening it a bit is all you need to do. Hold the body of the tap dead still with a big wrench.
If you still can't shift it, heat will usually work. Obviously there could be problems with shoving a blowlamp down the back of your units, but a heat gun, or even a powerful hairdryer could get it hot if you left it long enough.

Everything expands when you get things hot, including the gaps, and most plumbers' goos will soften. So warm it up and have a careful go.