Johnstones Aqua - still the best?

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I have been 'tasked' with decorating the woodwork in the hall and upstairs landing... Banister, spindles, frames, cladding to dado and skirting... A lot of wood. Previously painted with dulux water based satinwood which I didn't like!
I've read that the Aqua system is very good but the threads were quite old! Is this still recommended and any other tips you guys could offer up?

To add... The t&g cladding has been filled with polyfilla one fill where necessary and rubbed down and caulked between the boards where they were a bit gappy (which previously left shadow lines in the finish).
Also, on the top banisters I have applied a coat of Dulux Once oil based gloss - it was meant to be satinwood but I picked up the wrong tin at the store and was before I read about the solvent paints now turning yellow quickly - duh!
This'll need prepping to take the water based satinwood so what's the recommended procedure for that?
 
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It's pretty good as water based paint goes, I found the best technique is wet the synthetic brush and shake out before starting, wipe down area with a damp cloth just before painting and on panelled doors ignore the traditional approach of panels, horizontals, verticals. Instead paint the top panels top bar and start on sides, move to the centre panels (and mid rail) keeping the sides with a wet edge, moving down to the bottom panels and last bit of sides and bottom rail. skirting and architraves just wet the brush and wipe down as before. Usually takes about 10 mins a side.

As a rule I check back after 5 mins or so to catch any corner runs starting in the moulding with a fine wet flitch brush.
 
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It's pretty good as water based paint goes, I found the best technique is wet the synthetic brush and shake out before starting, wipe down area with a damp cloth just before painting and on panelled doors ignore the traditional approach of panels, horizontals, verticals. Instead paint the top panels top bar and start on sides, move to the centre panels (and mid rail) keeping the sides with a wet edge, moving down to the bottom panels and last bit of sides and bottom rail. skirting and architraves just wet the brush and wipe down as before. Usually takes about 10 mins a side.

As a rule I check back after 5 mins or so to catch any corner runs starting in the moulding with a fine wet flitch brush.

Thanks @footprints, luckily I don't have to do any doors :D she wants new oak ones :(.
I also edited my op while you were replying so can you advise on the last para of my post?
 
Rub down the gloss and use the aqua undercoat, you will find without the aqua undercoat the top coat is rather thin and translucent not good coverage.
 
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I posted my review of Johnstone's Aqua on another post a few weeks ago. I used it for the first time a month or so ago, not having used w/b gloss for a couple of years after a bad experience (brushmarks galore!!). I am really impressed with the Johnstone's Aqua. I prepped well - sanded existing o/b down to leave it 'flat' and then applied the Aqua undercoat, waited at least 4 hours (even though it's touch dry after about an hour) and then applied Aqua gloss. I didn't find I needed any more coats of gloss and was very pleased with the result. There is definitely a technique to using it especially when doing doors. Basically slap it on, lay it off and leave it. And use a good synthetic brush.
 
IMO the Dulux is better, the undercoat is very good. Gloss is difficult to keep the wet edge going compared to the oil based, but is vastly improved on earlier efforts. Bedec is supposed to be good but i've never used it. My local merchant reckons the oil based isn't as bad for yellowing now, but i've got so used to working with wb/hybrid paints and the health benefits, the thought of going back to heavy stinky oils and headaches is enough to keep me away from it.
 
Do you's think I need to use the undercoat on the pre-painted w/b satinwood areas?
 
Do you's think I need to use the undercoat on the pre-painted w/b satinwood areas?
Try it and see on a section, certainly old oil paint that has yellowed will show through without undercoat.
 
It's all w/b satin; apart from the landing banister and spindles that I coated in o/b gloss last night... Looks bloody lovely apart from being a gloss finish! In two minds whether to leave that bit as is and do all else in satin?!
 
If it ain't broke don't fix it!;)

Well... I told MSO (my significant other) that it's better for that to be in gloss because she and the kids hang wet towels over it when they exit the bathroom :cautious:


Wet towels on rails finished with waterbased... you may find that the paint fails pretty quickly, sorry.

It is o/b gloss, as mentioned earlier in this thread, but thanks anyhoo ;)
 
If it ain't broke don't fix it!;)

Well... I told MSO (my significant other) that it's better for that to be in gloss because she and the kids hang wet towels over it when they exit the bathroom :cautious:


Wet towels on rails finished with waterbased... you may find that the paint fails pretty quickly, sorry.

It is o/b gloss, as mentioned earlier in this thread, but thanks anyhoo ;)


My bad, sorry, yes I should have read the first post more clearly.

I must confess that although I want to like water based finishes, I don't.

BTW If you ever have problems maintaining a wet edge, try some Floetrol- a great additive

http://www.owatroldirect.co.uk/product/floetrol/

The oil based counter part is Owatrol.
 
Thanks. I did see a reference to floetrol on the pistonheads forum and took note (y).
Like you, I want to like w/b paints because I like Pandas too :sneaky:
And my kids moaned like **** last night coz the smell of onions cut in half was as bad as the smell of o/b gloss... Took me right back to my own childhood!
 

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