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Joining solid worktop, small infill

Discussion in 'Wood / Woodwork / Carpentry' started by ChilliBob, 26 May 2018.

  1. ChilliBob

    ChilliBob

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    Guys,

    I have a solid wood worktop 600mm deep which I'm fitting in our utility area. This will be 2m long and for about 1.5m I need to attach an 'infill' of 11cm.

    I was just going to but join these with pva or similar. A quick Google shows methods using bolts and biscuits. For this small strip of 1.5m x 11cm would I get away with just gluing?

    Let me know your thoughts please!

    Thanks
     
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  3. blup

    blup

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    If you mean infill at the back of the worktop glue would be fine, perhaps reinforced with dowels or connector plates. Bolts are used to join the ends and sides of worktops to create a smooth surface and a tight, stable connection.

    Have you thought about a contrasting piece of wood for the filler as this might look better than a piece of worktop tapped on without the pattern or grain matching?

    Cheers,

    Blup
     
  4. ChilliBob

    ChilliBob

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    Perhaps I have used the wrong terminology. Essentially the board will be a 600 deep butting up to a boxed in set of boiler pipes, and then will be 710 deep to go to the wall beyond this.

    So, I got a 3m board cut into 2m and 1m. I intend to cut 11cm strips from the 1m off cut and join those to the 600 to make it 710 for about 1.5m of the 2m length.

    So not an upright splashback thingy at the back.

    Hopefully that makes more sense now?!
     
  5. blup

    blup

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    You could screw a lip to the boxing and to the back of the wall, to take some of the weight of the infill and then glue and fix as best you can.

    Jointing bolts could also work, but involve more work and you would still have the joint(s) between the section(s) of infill standing proud.

    Alternatively you could rout out the back of the worktop by 11 cms, where it is up against the boxing but presumably you need the depth for a washing machine or whatever.

    Blup
     
  6. JobAndKnock

    JobAndKnock

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    Assuming that it is a long grain joint then dowelling with D4 PVA? Butt jointing requires heavy cramping and doesn't work well in an on-site environment, I find
     
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  8. foxhole

    foxhole

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    Why do you need 710 , just cutout for pipes from the 600 ?
     
  9. ChilliBob

    ChilliBob

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    Because 600 wouldn't cover the appliances then due to pipework on the wall.

    I've pretty much done this now, taking a rather novel approach of slats attached to the main board (a bit like a bed) with the infills dropped (read wedged) in. Which has the bonus I can get them out but pulling the main board forward a tad, and hence get to the sockets the freezer is plugged into :)
     
  10. foxhole

    foxhole

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  11. ChilliBob

    ChilliBob

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    It actually looks alright now, I've basically built those things from ply! The infills were quite small so it worked out fine :)
     
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  12. DIYnot Local

    DIYnot Local

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