Junior 28i Issues after work

Rom

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Starting from the beginning. This is a house I've bought, not not lived in.
Boiler is a Worcester Junior 28i. Fitted in 2013 by British Gas.

I've stripped the bathroom. Closed all upstairs rad valves and lock shields. Removed bathroom radiator, moved pipes to another wall, and capped them.

I've tested all pipework wet, with no leaks.
Boiler has been filled to a bit over 1 bar. Bled all rads, bled boiler via tube at the top.

After a few restarts, the boiler fired. Think the issues were to do with the rc plus not demanding CH. Never used it, so took a minute to figure it out.

After 5-10 mins, rads were no longer stone cold. But didn't get warm, and no HW after a minute or so of the tap running.

The boiler then faulted, with the blue light being on, and flashing off. And the red light flashing.
After trying a restart, the fan spins up pretty fast, then speeds up even more, then it faults again.

Things that may help.

Even rad in stat room has a trv.
All upstairs rwd shields open fully.
1 lockshield weeped.
I have owner and installer pdfs.
Wireless receiver box showed an alarm before it finally.

I do have a video, but struggling to upload it.
Any advice much appreciated
 
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Fan starts up then speeds fast ,,, sounds like ignition fault ,,, ecv open on your gas meter ?
 
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You should not really have removed the room sealing cover from your boiler!
 
Fan starts up then speeds fast ,,, sounds like ignition fault ,,, ecv open on your gas meter ?

Thanks, I'll check this today. I did check the hot water the day we got keys. And it did fire yesterday , with the green flame light on for 5-10 mins.
I'm guessing this couldn't have just been the residual gas in the pipework?
But I'll check as you suggest.

You should not really have removed the room sealing cover from your boiler!

How else could I bleed the boiler? I guess you mean because I'm not a gas safe plumber?
 
You should not really have removed the room sealing cover from your boiler!
Tony is correct here - the cover of your boiler should only be removed and refitted by a Gas Safe Registered engineer to ensure that it's done correctly and CO or unburnt gas can't leak into the room (quite important with your boiler as the rubber gas hose inside it is prone to splitting, and an incorrectly refitted case could be very bad news). You should call someone in to do the necessary tests to ensure safe operation. They can then investigate why it's not currently working as well
 
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if you read the manuals you need to explain this a little

Sorry missed your reply somehow.

That's how the manual describes the fault lights.

Screenshot_20161203-070403_zpsc5yhnxpb.png


As for bleeding, no air came out the boiler. I bled about 500 ml of water, no air.
Upstairs rads had loads of air. Bled until they stopped hissing, and water came out.
Downstairs rads were fine.
 
How else could I bleed the boiler? I guess you mean because I'm not a gas safe plumber?

Here's a worst case scenario (as all gas testing of appliances has to account for safe operation, during max output and worst conditions)...

You take cover of your own boiler at home, nobody knows you've done it, nobody can stop you.
You do your thing; put it all back together; all works well and you can't smell gas; system working and you're proud of your achievement at having fixed this yourself... good job, well done!

However, unbeknownst to you, when you took the cover off, the seals around the casing were perished/fused in a couple of places and are now compromised and defective; the appliance is no longer room sealed and, compounded by a couple of other defects within the cc, CO is now entering the room during firing. You can't see, hear or smell it; the room is a bedroom and........
When the authorities attend, to investigate the cause of death(s); they trace it down to the boiler casing and the defective seals. They sift through the paperwork records, available for the installation, which brings them to the last "known" person to touch the boiler, through their GSR number. The engineer is located, interviewed and suspended from carrying out gas work for weeks/months/years until the authorities are satisfied, if at all!

Death(s) and a ruined career with stress and anxiety overtones...
a worst case scenario!
 
Jesus. Let's just stop all diy. I get safety. I'm in a trade myself. But it's a diy forum, maybe it's only for posts about Nest and Hive?
If we apply this logic to everything, no one would ever do anything themselves. Change a wheel on your car? What about the poor mechanic, who last worked on it, and torqued your wheel. He could be fired!
Let's all use the AA etc if we ever get a flat tyre. Because safety. The wheel could fall off, causing a major motorway pile up. Killing untold.

I've got an alarm right next to the boiler.
The boiler is 3 years old. The cover seal is not perished.
I'll be getting the work checked before we move in. I just wanted to fire it up, to know it's working again.
 
Fan starts up then speeds fast ,,, sounds like ignition fault ,,, ecv open on your gas meter ?

Yep, handle is on, in line position.

This morning, boiler fired, green light on. Fan slowed to a reasonable speed. After a couple of minutes, it faulted, red light on, fan going nuts.

Is this some kind of failsafe, the fan going nuts, to protect it from damaging itself?
 
Last edited:
Sorry missed your reply somehow.

That's how the manual describes the fault lights.


its a newish boiler ,if all you've done is drain and let air out then it then probably would cost little to get it fixed by a rgi . thats if you haven't tried starting it with no water in it that is or a coincidence a fault has appeared then you would need a rgi anyway.

as from your table , is blue light normally on , flashing fast , how many pulses , if you want to fix something you've got to RTFM :) .

OH and gas is a silent killer , not just you but everyone within the household , just something to think about
 
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AGAS, the blue light is on flashes off. Slowly. The red light is flashing slowly. Once per second roughly.

Manual says Flue overheat, Heat exchanger overheat, flue blockage.

It hasn't been on long enough to overheat anything?

I filled it the other night, tried water and heating. Been filled ever since.
Out of curiosity, would it not have a low pressure (ie empty) safety? To stop it damaging itself.
Or do you mean that running it empty, could have introduced a problem, like air or something. Rather than it will have killed the boiler.
 
Yeah, it faults again.

This morning, I switched spur on, reset it. It fired. Then faulted.
If left, the fan stops after a while. And it just sits in what I assume is lockout, the red flashing, blue flashing.

I will get an rgi out in the week, I just wanted to check my other work was ok. And maybe have some heat while I work lol.
 

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