Just discovered purlin barely supported on a corner of a brick -HELP

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I just got into the loft the other day and discovered that the purlin is barely supported, and the 1st rafter is even coming away from the purlin. Images are attached.

The house is a 1930's build and has the original roof and timbers. I have no idea how long its been like this.

The purlin itself doesn't even reach the wall. It looks like the support for the purlin maybe broken? There is some roof sag in that are when looking from outside.

How would I go about fixing this problem? I am not even sure who to contact.I have been really stressed out about this and have no idea about what needs to be done or how much it should cost.
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It can be rectified but it may have consequences regards the 'memory' of the existing roof. The solution would be to remove a piece of ceiling or two and prop from the first floor possibly down to the ground floor depending how the floor joists work. Then bolt a new piece of timber along the existing purlin and onto the wall.

The worrying bit is how the old roof will react to being jacked up? Are you thinking of a re-roof anytime soon?
 
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It can be rectified but it may have consequences regards the 'memory' of the existing roof. The solution would be to remove a piece of ceiling or two and prop from the first floor possibly down to the ground floor depending how the floor joists work. Then bolt a new piece of timer along the existing purlin and onto the wall.

The worrying bit is how the old roof will react to being jacked up? Are you thinking of a re-roof anytime soon?
I am thinking of re-roofing. What would be the best option in that case? Can the purlin and dip in the roof be fixed by a roofer, when they do a re-roof?
 
I am thinking of re-roofing. What would be the best option in that case? Can the purlin and dip in the roof be fixed by a roofer, when they do a re-roof?
It'll be much easier to jack up the purlin without the weight of all those tiles on the roof. And yes the dip can be rectified more easily for the same reason- if any of the rafters have bowed it is again much easier to replace them when there aren't tiles and battens on top of them
 
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It'll be much easier to jack up the purlin without the weight of all those tiles on the roof. And yes the dip can be rectified more easily for the same reason- if any of the rafters have bowed it is again much easier to replace them when there aren't tiles and battens on top of them
would i still need to prop from first floor or ground floor in this case?
 
I am thinking of re-roofing. What would be the best option in that case? Can the purlin and dip in the roof be fixed by a roofer, when they do a re-roof?
If you remove the tiles from the roof - thus the weight - then you could fit a brand new purlin in the roof, that actually goes from wall bearing to hip junction. The old one could (possibly) stay and be connected to the new one.
 
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It'll be much easier to jack up the purlin without the weight of all those tiles on the roof. And yes the dip can be rectified more easily for the same reason- if any of the rafters have bowed it is again much easier to replace them when there aren't tiles and battens on top of them
is it a very expensive procedure to replace rafters and purlins? how much would it likely add to a "normal" re-roof?
 
Probably less than £500.

How are the purlins collected at the hip junctions?

This is the other side of the purlin. The tube light is attached to the purlin. Does it look standard? Or should there be more support there?

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Does it look standard?
What bothers me is why they didn't continue the original purlin onto the wall. It may be that it clashes with your neighbours purlin? It looks as though the brickies deliberately corbelled the bricks out to collect it. It then makes me wonder whether your neighbours purlin is resting on the other part of the brick, jutting out their side...?
 
For a do like that you need to track down a competent builder- no there's not a lot of building work in there, you'll be paying him/her to sort access, lifting gear, materials, waste disposal as well as bringing in the appropriate trades at the correct stages of the job.
 
If it's been like that a while, the rafters may have undergone a permanent set (known as 'creep', which timber is prone to long-term).
Jacking might lift the lower part of the roof off the wall plate.
Once the tiles are off, it might be easier to sister the existing rafters with new 75 x 50 set to give an even slope.
 

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