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Just had a part glazed door dipped, now i wanna paint it.

Discussion in 'Decorating and Painting' started by Tred_Bloke, 27 Jul 2009.

  1. Tred_Bloke

    Tred_Bloke

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    Just had a part glazed door dipped, now i wanna paint it.

    Its a pine panel door, only the top half is glazed, it must be very old, wood doesnt look to good in places, small holes, chips, damage, wood shavings..., Also evidence of filler from what must have been a previous restoration.

    Eventually the wood will be eventually glossed egg shell white.

    What procedure should i follow to best repair/ restore wood, and give it the best possible finish?

    Any help would be appreciated, thanks.
     
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  3. Tred_Bloke

    Tred_Bloke

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    No takers yet!!??

    Is it ok to fill the small holes with decorators chalk as i'm only gonna gloss it?

    I cant remember if i read that or dreamed it!?
     
  4. big-all

    big-all

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    was it dipped or soaked

    if it was soaked you are talking several weeks to dry out
     
  5. Robbie uk

    Robbie uk

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    Doors that are dipped in caustic soda are usually washed after to get rid of the caustic. If this is not not done thoroughly then a sealer may be needed as it will bleed through the paint. Zinnser Bin is quite good for this as a primer coat first. Dont use caulk as a filler on the flat surfaces, but use a fine polyfilla or even a two pack filler. Rub down and give a coat of undercoat followed by two coats of satinwood, all oil based.
     
  6. Tred_Bloke

    Tred_Bloke

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    Bloke says it was dipped and should be ok to paint by the end of the week.

    What you mean by a two part filler? Sorry to act like a thicko.
     
  7. Robbie uk

    Robbie uk

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    Its a bit like car body filler but used o wood. very strong.
     
  8. big-all

    big-all

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    one thing you can do if the joints open up and the door sags

    assuming its a mortice and tennon door

    is clear out any crud stopping the rails and styles going tight together

    clamp with sash clamp if you have one clamp just off centre off each rail drill a 8mm hole 3mm less depth than the door along the centre line off the rail but 1" into the style each side and anywhere you have a mortice and tennon

    pull the door as loose as you can work glue into any joint gaps clamp if you have one 'glue in dowels tap home with the other side supported to stop break out
    clear up excess glue cut off the excess dowel when dry sand smooth
    you will now have a more stable door

    you can generaly tell if a door has mortice and tennon joints by looking at the top or bottom
    if theres a moulded shape the same as against the lower pannels where the top meets the the sides it not mortice and tennon

    i personaly would give it another 2 or three weeks to make shure its fully dry before doweling or painting

    if you want to dowel just pm me your address and i will send you 20 x35 or 40mm dowels ;)
     
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