Keeping uniform brickwork joint widths?

[Mr M]

I am just starting to rebuild my front porch, weather permitting and before I start my brickwork, I have a couple of questions.

I have set out the position for the 1st course of engineering brick, in pencil on the foundation and worked on the basis for the front wall being 10No. brick lengths, each 215mm long with 9No. joints, each 10mm wide, to give an overall measurement of 2440mm

Would the correct way to work be either:-

a) Set the two bricks at either end first ie the corners, off my pencil marks and then lay the bricks in between the two or
b) Start at one end by putting in the corner brick and then work along to the opposite corner

Also, when setting the bricks, what is the easiest or most common way to ensure that I maintain both a 10mm width between each of the bricks and a 10mm bed joint on each course.

Thanks in advance for any responses.

 

[noseall]

just corner up and run in.

once you've set out dry it's up to you. if there is any existing neighbouring brickwork dictating the bond, then build it accordingly.

also, if there are any doorways, configure the bond so that when you lintel over the doorway, the bond works above the doorway, and not header-three quarter.

 

[Mr M]

Thanks noseall

just corner up and run in.

So am I right in thinking that a) is the correct way to lay then?

once you've set out dry it's up to you.

I know that if I put the bricks in at either corner and then start at one end, working towards the other my last brick will either not fit in and need cutting or I will be left with a joint bigger than 10mm. Is there a method of ensuring that this doesn't happen

not header-three quarter.

Sorry but what does this mean?

 

[noseall]

header-3/4 is what you have to do when you b**ger the bond up.

it occurs when two brickies run-in above, say a garage door opening and they meet in the middle and the gap is only big enough for a 1/2 brick.

this is because it was not set out dry on the ground first. although the wall should work in bricks, one of the brickies should have set out with a stretcher instead of a header or vice-versa.

the only solution is to build header three quarter, or a pair of 3/4's, above the garage door.

 

[Mr M]

header-3/4 is what you have to do when you b**ger the bond up.

it occurs when two brickies run-in above, say a garage door opening and they meet in the middle and the gap is only big enough for a 1/2 brick.

this is because it was not set out dry on the ground first. although the wall should work in bricks, one of the brickies should have set out with a stretcher instead of a header or vice-versa.

the only solution is to build header three quarter, or a pair of 3/4's, above the garage door.

Right, I understand that bit now but how do I maintain uniform 10mm joint widths for the bricks which fit in between those forming the corners, to ensure that the bricks fit in ?

 

[noseall]

Right, I understand that bit now but how do I maintain uniform 10mm joint widths for the bricks which fit in between those forming the corners, to ensure that the bricks fit in ?

practice dear boy, practice.

once the first course is down, you can line up with the bricks below. you only need to fuss with the first course, then you're away

seriously, a brickie does it by experience and knows how to gain a little or lose a little, on a run. just butter the end and push it into place. the mortar displacement is such that an average 10mm joint is created anyhow.


unless you mix the muck like slurry that is.

 

[Mr M]

just butter the end and push it into place. the mortar displacement is such that an average 10mm joint is created anyhow.

Depends how much mortar you load onto the perp end though Is it usual to cover the whole end of the perp in mortar and squeeze the excess out when it is laid or just put a scraping on either side ie the inner and outer edge and leave the middle section of the perp mortar free?

once the first course is down, you can line up with the bricks below. you only need to fuss with the first course, then you're away

To get the 1st course right, would it be an option to mark a piece of 2"x1" timber up as a gauge, with lines marked on every 225mm

 

[noseall]

as i've said, it isn't necessary to gauge horizontally, just vertically.

butter the end solid and lay the bricks. you can jiggle them after laying if needs be.

but if you really have to, lay them dry then offer a piece of timber batten up to the dry laid bricks, and mark them off onto the timber.

use the gauge when you lay for real.

 

[breadknife]

Mr m bricklaying is'nt a science, as for perpends or cross joints , they say you should butter up for a lest 80% of the joint, when you lay the brick it's best to have enough on the brick so that (1) it creates a full flush joint (makes pointing soooo much easier and faster ( just one stroke of your jointer) and (2) prevent water pentration, if you just put abit on each side of the brick then looks ok when finished initially but within a few years either erode away or fall out allowing water to get then after freeze thaw action could create cracks or move rest of brickwork!!!...alaways ensure FULL joints all round.

Also you seem quite worried about maintaing 10 mm joints which is all well and good (especially when setting out) but the bricks are never that uniform the bs 3621 I think it is gives a variance on the horizontal plane of the brick of +/- 3mm this means you could have one brick @ 212mm long next to one 218mm and still be within british standards, this is where a experienced bricklayer can hide these irregularities..........

good luck with the porch and even a worst you could get it rendered if you make a mess!