I need a few things changing for my new kitchen and wanted a bit of advice.
At the moment the cooker circuit comes out of the CU on 6mm cable but terminates in a surface mount double socket.
My new oven requires wiring in to a cooker point with 6mm cable, unfortunatley the cable is not long enough to reach the new location, if I want to replace the socket with a cooker isolator switch will I need to replace the whole cable back into the CU, or is it possible to use a connector or junction box on the end of the current cable (6mm) and extend with new 6mm cable to the switch?
I also plan to connect the electric oven and the gas hob ignition into the one cooker isolator, is this OK or should 2 switches be used?
The other piece is relating to new under cabinet lights, I assume the proper way to fit these would be to rip out the ceiling and to take a new loop off the lighting circuit and provide power to the new lights via another switch cable going to the wall socket. However, a friend said in his kitchen they had taken the power off a spur from one of the sockets on the ring main and wired the lights via a switch from there. Is this OK, should lights be run off the sockets? This would make the cabling much more simpler.
I also plan to take a spur off an existing socket and to chase the cables in the wall to a wall mounted switch and from there to a socket mounted behind the chimney hood. Is this OK, the instructions for the hood say the plug must be accessible to turn it off, but if the socket is wired via a switch is this necessary?
Thanks in advance.
PS I was going to get an inspection done from the Building Control but they charge £135 for a plan submission and then extra for an inspection (which they will outsource to a local electrician). Due to this they can't give an actual cost for the inspection fee until I have submitted the plan and they have got a quote from the local guy. Are they not supposed to provide some sort of standard costs for inspection so you know the cost before starting the process?
At the moment the cooker circuit comes out of the CU on 6mm cable but terminates in a surface mount double socket.
My new oven requires wiring in to a cooker point with 6mm cable, unfortunatley the cable is not long enough to reach the new location, if I want to replace the socket with a cooker isolator switch will I need to replace the whole cable back into the CU, or is it possible to use a connector or junction box on the end of the current cable (6mm) and extend with new 6mm cable to the switch?
I also plan to connect the electric oven and the gas hob ignition into the one cooker isolator, is this OK or should 2 switches be used?
The other piece is relating to new under cabinet lights, I assume the proper way to fit these would be to rip out the ceiling and to take a new loop off the lighting circuit and provide power to the new lights via another switch cable going to the wall socket. However, a friend said in his kitchen they had taken the power off a spur from one of the sockets on the ring main and wired the lights via a switch from there. Is this OK, should lights be run off the sockets? This would make the cabling much more simpler.
I also plan to take a spur off an existing socket and to chase the cables in the wall to a wall mounted switch and from there to a socket mounted behind the chimney hood. Is this OK, the instructions for the hood say the plug must be accessible to turn it off, but if the socket is wired via a switch is this necessary?
Thanks in advance.
PS I was going to get an inspection done from the Building Control but they charge £135 for a plan submission and then extra for an inspection (which they will outsource to a local electrician). Due to this they can't give an actual cost for the inspection fee until I have submitted the plan and they have got a quote from the local guy. Are they not supposed to provide some sort of standard costs for inspection so you know the cost before starting the process?
