Kitchen PVC door problem

Joined
5 May 2004
Messages
121
Reaction score
0
Country
United Kingdom
Hi, we've had a kitchen PVC door for around 10 years. For about a year its not been able to 'click' shut - the triangle part of the protruding central lock is jammed so whenever we shut it we have to lift the handle to secure - no biggy but last week I had the bright idea of seeing if I could remove the central lock bit and see if it was fixable. Not being big on DIY this maybe wasn't one of my best ideas as I started to unscrew the screws down the brass edging plate. There is also a top and bottom locking mechanism (pretty standard I'm assuming). I had undone about 3 or 4 screws when I suddenly realised that the hexagonal shaped ones hold in the locking mechanisms and suddenly the one at the top had come free! I thought better of it at this stage and managed to drop it back in and secure it all and everything seemed ok. It's been about a week since that happened, then today all of a sudden everythings gone mad - when the door handle is in its normal position ie when the door would be closed, the top mechanism 'hook' is inside - good - the central rectangle lock is slightly protruding though, causing difficulty in shutting the door without slamming it a bit, and the bottom mechanism hook protrudes slightly - not good. When you push the handle down the top hook moves a little but doesn't come out, the central and bottom ones come out.
Has anyone any idea what's happened here and whether I can do anything (simply) to rectify - I remember there was a sort of tracking bit of rod inside the door frame that I assume all the locks latch on to - possibly that has come away? Seems a bit of a coincidence this has happened after my 'efforts' of last week, but then again it has been fine for a week since.
Is it 'safe' for me to undo the brass strip all the way down and take out/check each locking mechanism - I was a bit worried they might fall down the inside of the door panel - not sure how this bit works.
Thanks in advance to anyone that can help!
 
Sponsored Links
Yes it is, only take out the self taping screws though :D , if you see a machine screw thread put it back in before you take it right out but be careful as most of these are very very short, these hold the gearboxes onto the lock strap. To remove the mechanism completely you'll need to remove the handles, which are just 2 or 3 screws and remove the spindle, also need to remove the euro cylinder (barrel), this is held in with one machine screw through the side of the mechanism (the brass edging plate as you call it), if the barrel doesn't slide out at this point put the key in and turn to either 11 o'clock or 1 o'clock roughly, pulling gently at the same time, you'll see why once you get it out.

The mech will now come out, whats probably happened is the gearbox has come away from the strap and the rod that gets pushed up and down by the gearbox is now out of sync with the bottom half, with a clear head, no panicing and a cup of tea you should be able to rebuild it.

As for the original problem with the latch then thats clearly a spring that failed within the gearbox, if you can live without it then great otherwise its a new gearbox or locking mech, both easy to change but quite tricky to match, they have to be a perfect straight swap, no hacksawing here :D , do not attempt to take the gearbox apart, it will end in tears!!!
 
Hi Tonysab I have the answer to your problem but to explain is rather
long winded for an answer on this forum your welcome to give me a buzz
if thats ok post me versatile75
 
Thanks for your replies - crank39 you were absolutely spot on with your assessment and instructions to determine this. First trick as you say is not to remove the smaller screws! The problem I found to be that the top gear mechanism has a crack in the top which causes it to not lay tight against the traction strap and had therefore come away. I tried superglue and it seems to be holding for now and re-aligned with the strap and all ok. I suspect it won't hold for long though so need to get a new gear mechanism - trouble is there are absolutely no markings on it to identify it. I know the main mechanism is a 35/92 E-19786 which is GU.
The other thing was when I screwed the self tapping screws back in, only about half went tight.
I've posted a picture of the top mechanism if you have any ideas what sort it is that would be brilliant. Thanks again.
 
Sponsored Links
Take a look at the link and see if you can find one that matches, as you can see there are a fair few but you will soon narrow it down depending on how many hooks, roller cams and mushrooms your mechanism has.

http://www.dgsupplyline.co.uk/results.php?category_id=10&sub_category_id=56

The 35/92 means its a 35mm backset (from the face plate to the centre of the spindle hole)

The 92 is the PZ, this is the measurement from the centre of the spindle down to the circular part of the hole for the barrel i.e 92mm, most modern doors are 92mm
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Back
Top