Kitchen sink waste to 2.5 inch cast iron

[FrankE]

Due to a plastic waste pipe fracture and solvent weld failure by central heating installer I have to replace the internal waste stack from the kitchen sink and all connections to downpipe branch. So much for a ten minute job!

I've knocked out the cast iron bend mortared into the wall., the 40mm PVC pipe that was caulked into it and had to chip out the solder and twine joint that the bend entered a 112 degree branch through.
I assumed it contained asbestos.

I got a Polypipe 232 Caulking Bush to go from 40mm plastic to the cast iron socket, solder block /mortar to fill the 112 degree branch socket joint. I've cut a plywood jig to contain the solder flow when refitting but I can't find suitable yarn to compress into the joints. The wholesalers including a (drain specialist), DIY sheds I have tried looked at me blankly.

Does anyone know a good stockist of cast iron drainage suppliers that might have caulking yarn?

What is best practice for penetration of a to avoid thermal bridging, moisture bridging?

I'm also looking for pipe brackets to match existing but I'm not sure what they are called. They are something like electrical conduit crampets (hammered into mortar joint in wall at one side of downpipe and they wrap two thirds round the downpipe.

Does anyone know what these clips are called and where to get them?

Neighbours have replaced sections of cast iron with plastic bossed connections and it looked awful, so want to use traditional techniques.

Many thanks..

 

[ALCPlumbing]

Why don't you use a rubber fernco coupling to connect the plastic to the cast iron. It will save a lot of time and I have always found them reliable if both surfaces are smooth and clean.

 

[FrankE]

Why don't you use a rubber fernco coupling to connect the plastic to the cast iron. It will save a lot of time and I have always found them reliable if both surfaces are smooth and clean.

The cast iron socket the caulk-bushed fitting goes into is mortared into the wall.
It's not a temporary job I'm doing.

 

[JimCrow]

Why don't you use a rubber fernco coupling to connect the plastic to the cast iron. It will save a lot of time and I have always found them reliable if both surfaces are smooth and clean.

The cast iron socket the caulk-bushed fitting goes into is mortared into the wall.
It's not a temporary job I'm doing.

it will be very temporary if you run hot lead (not solder as in your first post) round a plastic caulking bush, use rope and mortar.

the pipe brackets are called holdfasts http://www.1stsuppliesscot.co.uk/round-pipes-fittings/1323-2-1-2-holdfast.html

 

[FrankE]

Why don't you use a rubber fernco coupling to connect the plastic to the cast iron. It will save a lot of time and I have always found them reliable if both surfaces are smooth and clean.

The cast iron socket the caulk-bushed fitting goes into is mortared into the wall.
It's not a temporary job I'm doing.

it will be very temporary if you run hot lead (not solder as in your first post) round a plastic caulking bush, use rope and mortar.

the pipe brackets are called holdfasts http://www.1stsuppliesscot.co.uk/round-pipes-fittings/1323-2-1-2-holdfast.html

I'm not pouring lead into the socket with the caulking bush. I'm using yarn (when I can find some) and mortar. The lead is for the other end of the cast iron bend, where it goes into the 112 degree cast iron branch. The socket end of the bend is mortared into the wall, the male end goes into a socket (female) on the cast iron 112 degree branch.

Ah, holdfasts. Thanks. One is rusted away on another stack and I have to replace a section anyway where a tradesperson bodged it and legged it using a ductile coupling.

 

[doitall]

Drainage castings.

get yourself some hemp rope and lead wool.

You can also get a black mastic for the job nowadays.

 

[FrankE]

Drainage castings.

get yourself some hemp rope and lead wool.

You can also get a black mastic for the job nowadays.

Haha, not being able to find yarn/oakum/hemp rope in plumbers merchants and drain centres was half the gist of the thread.



Cool, lead wool looks far easier to install than messing about with lead bar. I hadn't heard of that.

Thanks.