KITCHEN SOCKETS tripping RCD

I am puzzled by this.

What do you mean by "the MCB goes to off"?

It's my lack of expertise here... I guess I mean, when I get everything ready to try and test and flip the KITCHEN SOCKETS MCB, I do, the RCD trips and the MCB is down?

I didn't mean to puzzle anyone... just trying to describe my experiences probably using inaccurate language.
 
If the extractor was added it may not be on the cooker circuit.

It used to be an extractor, controlled by an above counter switch, back in 2017, then it was removed and an over-hob light was fitted, then that was removed and a new extractor was put in... I think it's a fair bet it's on KITCHEN SOCKETS... and, right now, it doesn't work as KITCHEN SOCKETS won't go up.

If it was on another circuit I'd presume it would work. Can't be certain of that, of course.
 
It used to be an extractor, controlled by an above counter switch, back in 2017, then it was removed and an over-hob light was fitted, then that was removed and a new extractor was put in... I think it's a fair bet it's on KITCHEN SOCKETS... and, right now, it doesn't work as KITCHEN SOCKETS won't go up.

You are still causing some confusion - better to use the words 'on', 'off', and 'trip'.
 
The OP still hasn't confirmed whether the outdoor lights are still working, or not?

In the OP's situation, with his claimed lack of knowledge, I would at least try releasing the faceplate screws on the failed sockets, to see if the RCD would then successfully reset - that would at least move his issue a stage forward, towards diagnosis.
 
In the last house, I fitted RCD's to supply the old Wylex fuse boxes, before consumer units came out, (mid 90s) to protect my 13-year-old son who had decided to become a radio ham like his dad. I found I would get a bout of tripping, maybe 6 times in 2 weeks, the nothing for next 2 years. Also, resetting one would often trip the other one, and it would often not reset unless the MCBs were turned off, and turning them on left to right would sometimes trip it, where turning them on right to left would not.

As to why, sorry not a clue, did test the RCDs, and they passed, at that time my clamp-on would not measure down to 1 mA, and clearly the RCDs were old, 4 modules width each. Well before the modern ones with electronics in them.

Since now Monday, I will assume you have got a reasonably priced electrician, and will soon be telling us what it was. I was the problems with the RCDs in old house, which resulted in this house being all RCBOs, however I have had one fail, on my to-do list, powers the cooker in flat, hardly ever used, so no hurry.

Also had a socket fail, roof leaking into the socket, on swapping could see plastic warped do to something going on inside. Again no hurry to fix, flat not used much.

But your time is also important, and there comes a point when you have to admit defeat. Like I have done when snow brought my gutters down.
 
As to why, sorry not a clue, did test the RCDs, and they passed, at that time my clamp-on would not measure down to 1 mA, and clearly the RCDs were old, 4 modules width each. Well before the modern ones with electronics in them.

Since now Monday, I will assume you have got a reasonably priced electrician, and will soon be telling us what it was. I was the problems with the RCDs in old house, which resulted in this house being all RCBOs, however I have had one fail, on my to-do list, powers the cooker in flat, hardly ever used, so no hurry.

Contrast with my own experience.... I had all the outdoor, garage/workshop, summerhouse, and hut, protected on an add on RCD. I decided we not only needed more circuits in the house, but we needed RCD protection in the house, so I decided to replace the original CU, with one with double the number of ways, but split by two RCD's.

Since when, apart from me accidentally shorting N to E, whilst faffing about with something - I have never had a trip.
 
I did look at the X-Pole X-pole.jpg with the warning dart to show getting near to tripping current, and the temprcd.jpgauto resetting type, now no longer permitted for domestic, but the ability of the RCD not to trip with spikes has moved on, in the old days there were no type AC, A, F, B etc, were some type S my son bought my old house from me, and fitted a modern two RCD consumer unit and tells me it has never tripped, as to if he would admit it should it trip after the ribbing I gave him for no using RCBO's I don't know!

I thought I was buying type B, plastered all over the packets, but after fitting found type AC, slowly replacing with type A, but in no hurry, as not primary protection, house on a TN-C-S or TN-S supply, depending on if using DNO or batteries, so RCD is an extra protection.
 
and I am a "Front Ender" - going back a while that was realistally all there was. When RCBOs first became do-able they were very expensive.
Dual RCDs were a good improvement when one front end was the only other option but nowadays I would go for all RCBOs personally.
 
and I am a "Front Ender" - going back a while that was realistally all there was.
I think that is probably the general experience.
One of my rental properties still is a front ender, It's a 3 bed semi with 3 detatched sheds and garage plus significant outdoor lighting. Every EICR lists it as C3. Our tenant has been there now for 20+ years and say the only trips have genuine and they have described what but now forgotten by me as the RCD did its job.
 
The OP still hasn't confirmed whether the outdoor lights are still working, or not?

In the OP's situation, with his claimed lack of knowledge, I would at least try releasing the faceplate screws on the failed sockets, to see if the RCD would then successfully reset - that would at least move his issue a stage forward, towards diagnosis.
Unless I've missed it, he still hasn't isolated the integrated fridge freezer either
 

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