Kitchen Spurs

[merecat]

I'm putting in a new ring in my kitchen. It'll have 3 double 13A socket outlets but I need to spur off them to fit a washing machine, dishwasher, fridge, freezer, hood and gas ignition. I have more appliances than socket outlets. I thought you could only only spur once off each individual socket in which case do I need 6 socket outlets?

someone told me to connect a fused spur to a double socket outlet above the worktop and connect it to another double socket outlet below at the back of the unit and simply plug in the washing machine and dishwasher. Both of these appliances i believe will come to over 20A which is too high for the 13A socket outlet and for the 2.5mm cable. I also don't think there is enough room at the back of the appliances to plug into the socket outlet. Do people use this method?

Could I connect fused spurs units into the ring itself so that they form part of the ring? In which case I could simply screw them to the back of the units and connect them to the appliances.

Any ideas from anyone would be appreciated.

 

[securespark]

I would use 20A DP switches above with a single socket below.

1 fuse for 1 appliance.

Wire them on the ring not as spurs.

 

[Warrior]

as above

 

[RF Lighting]

Or if you are fully rewiring the kitchen then I'd supply a grid switch with 20A DP modules supplying each of the appliance sockets from a seperate 4.0mm² radial, and just have the general sockets on the ring circuit.

 

[securespark]

Glad this has come up again. I meant to add to my post: but only if the appliance plug is accessible. If not, fit a fused spur above & a 15A plug/socket below.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Or if you are fully rewiring the kitchen then I'd supply a grid switch with 20A DP modules supplying each of the appliance sockets from a seperate 4.0mm² radial, and just have the general sockets on the ring circuit.

I'm planning to do just this. Its better than putting the grid switch centre on a ring because you would then concentrate all of the loads into one point on the ring.

RF, how do you engineer this? Do you run the 4mm to the grid switch box and mount a large capacity term block & then wire separate 2.5mm feeds to each grid switch?

I want to use grid switches that have capability to put labels in the rocker. (eg hob, dishwasher, etc). The MK data sheet shows that this is available but none of the usual suppliers seem to sell them.
See page 6 on here http://cirrus.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/DataSheets/MK/GridPlus.pdf

Any ideas where I can source them from?

Thanks

 

[Albert]

The requirement for fused spurs for the kitchen are in case that you cannot access the socket in the back. Although I believe and normally will use a fused spur for each appliance (to control the socket/s), it is not always possible. A socket behind a dishwasher, where the unit can be pulled out is not considered as unaccessible, I checked it recently, even a socket behind a big fridge is accessible as long the fridge can be pulled out (I tried to argue this imagining a pregnant lady in the kitchen or a disabled person, but this is it).
So where you don't have a choice follow the regs. do not forget to use switched socket if there is no fused spur.
If you will connect, where possible, spur as isolating unit for the socket that serves each appliance,it will prevent the issue of overloading.

Yes I would connect the spurs as part of the ring.

 

[Pensdown]

TTC, The MK part no for a DP switch labelled tumble dryer is K4896TDWHI. Just change the TD for DW=dishwasher, WM=washing machine etc.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Yes, but in my application I have some esoteric names that dont come on standard engraved gridders.
thats why i am trying to find where to get the grid with the removable plastic name cover, then i can print my own to suit.

 

[Pensdown]

We send blank switches/plates to the engravers. I'm not sure how they print on them but they look good.

 

[RF Lighting]

They engrave the grid, then it is filled with coloured wax. IMO it looks very smart, and it will allow you to use standard switch modules.

You should be able to loop the 4.0mm² straight into each of the switch modules supply terminals, and then either a 4.0mm² or a 2.5mm² (I prefer to keep it all in 4.0mm²) to each socket. You will want a good deep backbox to allow for all the wiring. Personally I use a 50mm flush box.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Thanks! I'm surprised you can get 2 x 4mm into a grid switch but I'll give it a go.
think the standard MK flush box is 40mm, or do u use others?

Thanks again.

 

[RF Lighting]

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/AP628.html

These boxes are actually 47mm, but whats 3mil between friends

 

[Taylortwocities]

Aha, I've got an 8 gang to do - those are 40mm.
Not all from one 4mm feed btw!

How about the terminations, does it work with 2 x 4mms in those 20A switches?

 

[RF Lighting]

Ahhh you never said 8 gang

Just chop the box in a bit deeper, and use long socket screws on the grid yokes.


I just tried 2 x 4.0mm² in an MK 20A DP grid switch, and it is fine. However, I couldn't get 2 x 6.0mm² into a single terminal.

(Yes I know it's old colours, but I didn't want to have to notify for an experiment (I'm kidding BTW))