Kitchen tap removal advice please

[diyhelpmeplease]

The loose ring connector you linked to goes inside the fitting a bit. If the male fitting won't take a pipe with a nut and olive then it probably won't take the connector either. You could try it though and see it it fits.

Ah I see what you mean. I bought the part to try it. I haven’t tried it yet but assume you mean the bit that protrudes above the washer in this image. This would need to fit inside the cold flexi hose male end. I will need to dismantle the tap to try this. That’s my next step.

 

[diyhelpmeplease]

I am assuming the white plastic check valve element could prevent this working even if the protrusion does fit within the male ending. You can see it is not that far in. Though the protrusion from the brass connector is only 5mm. I read the reviews of the tap and several people stated they connected the cold flexi using a compression joint. One even showed a photo but I could easily have done the same and shared a photo and I know that definitely doesn't mean it is the correct (leak free) way to do it. Hence I want to be sure I use the correct solution. It is baffling how the instruction manuals from the tap manufacturer has such a terrible lack of information. All it says is the following:

"It is recommended that 15mm x 15mm compression fittings be used to connect mixer to supply pipes. Cold is connected to the right and hot on the left when viewed from the front."

 

[avonmouth]

What a load of hassle, time and expense. Sling the hose and fit something like this or one that will screw straight onto the iso valve.
Job done.

 

[diyhelpmeplease]

It has been a frustrating experience to be honest but I have no plumbing training or experience so it is kind of to be expected. It would definitely have been easier if the manufacturer supplied decent instructions. Perhaps this sort of thing is second nature to plumbers. Anyway I am a great believer in learning from mistakes. If the cold hose had come with a female ending I would likely have just attached both hoses to the isolation valves and been done. However all this additional research has made me realise I should not have attached the hot flexihose to the isolation valves valve I bought as it does not have a flat end so may be damaging the washer. So I will need to address that too. All good. Happy to learn as I go along and not have to deal with any major leakage in my house.

Really appreciate all the advice I have received on this forum

 

[diyhelpmeplease]

What a load of hassle, time and expense. Sling the hose and fit something like this or one that will screw straight onto the iso valve.
Job done.

My understanding is the purpose of the check valve on the cold flexihose is to stop cross contamination between the hot and cold water. So I assume some taps have this check valve within the tap body and on this tap it is on the cold flexihose. I would therefore expect some taps not to have it within the body or the flexihose and it is the responsibility of the plumber to add a check valve. That is why I didn't opt to just replace the cold flexihose with another one that had a female ending. It would certainly have made the job a lot simpler.