Kitchen unit fixings.

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The wife bought a kitchen unit and she wants it hanging on a interior wall that is just 2 bits of plaster board oposite each other and NO WAY will it hold the unit empty let alone with all the crap she intends to put in it.

SO, i was wondering if any of you had advise about how to hang it securely.

The kitchen is already decorated and the unit is about head hieght and above a hard toped kitchen surface.
 
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You need to find the studs and screw a rail across.

If the studs are too far apart or if it is a paramount wall, you'll have to do something like I've just done. basically cut one side out, then put in studs and decent top plate, which is well anchored.

Actually mine was more complicated becuase I didn't want to rip out the bottom cabinet and there was wiring down there too. With paramount walls you have to cut out in pieces and then rip out the honey comb. I can give you the design if applicable. if you are doing something left field, be nice and mark on the covered section wall, where everything is for future occupier's benefit.

It really does help of you have solid exterior wall perpendicular, even if it is faced with plasterboard. It doesn't matter if there is a slight gap, becuase you can cut out small section opposite where you are fixing and insert spacers. It also helps to have a sound ceiling.
 
Is it stud wall or are the boards dot'n'dab, if dot'n'dab longer fixing needed, and holes SDS drilled through brick work behind board.
If stud locate joist to fix to, if no suitable joist you will need to cut a section of board and install cross nogins between stud uprights, then repair and fit unit to nogins.
 
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If stud locate joist to fix to, if no suitable joist you will need to cut a section of board and install cross nogins between stud uprights, then repair and fit unit to nogins.
That is along the lines of what I did. However if you may need to make the structure integral. If it is a three tier/two shelf cabinet you need to account for at least 40kg. Two tier maybe 30kg.

If it is just 2x2 stud at one end and a 2x1 in the corner, and there isn't a proper top plate, just a waif that doesn't even span across and clearly not well attached then that need to be removed.

Basically you can go with a "top plate" of the same the of the stud, but most likely not going to be fixed on top, but there is various fixing method you can use to attach it to the stud. Then have another cross member at the height the cabinet is fixed on, with one or two short studs between these. The top plate is full anchored to the ceiling and the load spread. Instead of more horizontal cross members, just have a diagonal truss underneath, it saves wood and is strong.

Correct order:
  • Cut out large section of the wall, remove crap whilst vacuuming profusely (buy a separate filter not to **** the wife off). The size should be slightly shorter than where the bottom of the cabinet is going to be or quite a bit longer such as half the wall. You do need enough space for fixing the truss not at an absurd angle.
  • Cut everything to size, and test fit the timbers one by one. You might want to do the some of holes at this point. Take your time, accuracy will pay off.
  • (Optional) fix corner stud to an external wall if appropriate, with spacer method as described.
  • Fix the shorts stud(s) to the top plate you can't do this afterwards. Length is height from ceiling to cabinet fixing minus top plate thickness minus half of cross member.
  • Fix top plate well the the ceiling
  • Fix to the studs using various method such as brackets or corner block. Best not just screw in at an angle as you won't have much leeway.
  • Fix cross member and also screw to studs.
  • Fix truss
  • Prep wall and cut out dry wall to size. if you are canny like me, pre drill slightly where the cabinet/rail is going to be fixed having mock hung. Insert pin nails with he end broken of so they are just sticking out, and use this to mark the wall board. carefully pre drill the wall board so you don't mess the good side.
  • You need to attach the the drywall with drywall screws (make sure you attach so the pre drilled is lined up by tacking there first using scrap wedges to hold it up). Top tip. On the bottom and possibly some sides. you might not have somethign to attach to. Simple. Just cut short sections of the same wood you are using and insert half way. If it is tight enough it will stay there by friction. On the vertical you can "screw tack" to a recessed stud. Then you can screw the dry wall to these. This method is particularly suited to a paramount wall, where you still have something pulling the sides together.
  • Tape, join and fill, making sure not to cover the fixing holes.

All you have to do is then is hang (mark the locations studs on the wall for kindness), build a façade if you wish, and seal and paint the walls.

It can help to have a short stubby screwdriver, preferably with a ratchet built in as well as a power driver. if you do have a good top plate you could adapt these plans buy attaching another piece to that.
 

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