Kitchen wiring advice please

Joined
7 Jul 2008
Messages
15
Reaction score
0
Location
Merseyside
Country
United Kingdom
Hi, i'm about to embark on fitting a new kitchen, and need to add to my existing circuit to encompas my appliances. I have a double socket with two 2.5mm twin and earth cables , the plan is to take one cable and join it to a new section of 2.5mm twin and earth and join using blue butt crimps wrapped in insulation tape and buried in the wall. This will feed a fused spur and as you can see in my diagram eventually after feeding two other fused spurs the circuit is complete back in the double socket.
104000_103967_3940_45434244_thumb.jpg
[/url][/img]
Could any one please advise me if there is any problem with the way i would do this before i begin.
Many thanks in advance
Mick
 
Sponsored Links
Can't see your image...

I wouldn't use insulating tape to wrap around your butt-crimps, heatshrink sleeving is the stuff to use.
 
You need to change permissions on your image file. I get " An Error Has Occurred.. You do not have permission to view this file"
And i cannot see the orig image - its too small.

In general you must remember that all electrical work in a kitchen must be notified to LABC before any work is done. See WIKI.

You must not use insulating tape to wrap the crimped joint in. Its not good enough for the job. It should be done with heat shrink sleeving.
 
Sorry about that changed my settings now. Heat shrink does definately sound better. thanks for that.
 
Sponsored Links
can you not join the ring in the back of the socket this would be better imo if you had a deep box. are you running cables up from behind worktop or you planning on going across horizontally? Who will be testing this and signign it off? Have you proved the socket you pursume is a ring is, and if so what method did you use? cheers
 
I could join the ring in the back of the socket, iwas just concious of having too many wires behind the double. I was planning to run the wiring horizontally to the fused spurs and vertically to the flex outlets. I have not contacted any authorities as yet but will be before work commences including an approved electrician who can sign the work off. As far as proving the socket is definately a ring i have pretty much just presumed it was. On that wall all there is, is the double socket and the supply to the cooker. What would you suggest to prove it is a rng
 
1) Your proposed horizontal run of new cable does not comply with the regulations. If when you notified LABC you told them that the way you would comply with P1 was to work to BS 7671 then you're already adrift.

2) Is the socket circuit RCD protected? If not you must make it so.

3) Are you aware of the depth limit for horizontal chases?
 
Could you tell me where i have gone wrong with the horizontal run.

"If when you notified LABC you told them that the way you would comply with P1 was to work to BS 7671 then you're already adrift."

Sorry but you've lost me with this bit.
The socket is RCD protected in the consumer unit
I do not know what the depth limit is. Could you tell me please?
 
Compliance with part P (P1) of the building regulations is compulsory. One way (the normal way) of complying is to work to British Standard 7671 (BS7671) - this is the electrical regulations in England, and lays out the "rules" that electricians must work to.

I think BAS means you have broken some of the rules in BS7671 therefore you cannot comply with Part P.

The rule I think he refers to is the safe zones of cable. The red horizontal cable with the "blue joint" on it is not in a safe zone, as it is not in a line with any visible accessory on the wall. To remedy this, run it with the cable below, which loops to the FCUs.

Depth-wise, I dont know the reg, but I wouldnt go any deeper than 10% of the brick depth of the wall. The regs may be more lenient with this.
 
Could you tell me where i have gone wrong with the horizontal run.
As Steve said, the cable isn't in one of the zones that are acceptable for cables just buried in the wall.


"If when you notified LABC you told them that the way you would comply with P1 was to work to BS 7671 then you're already adrift."

Sorry but you've lost me with this bit.
You are about to start work - have you submitted your Buildings Regulations approval request yet? If so, what did you say you would be doing in order to achieve compliance?

If not, were you aware that you are supposed to? //www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:part_p


I do not know what the depth limit is. Could you tell me please?
1/6th of the thickness of the wall. Including the plaster - e.g. if you have a 100mm wall with 20mm plaster each side the maximum depth is 23.3mm from the surface, not 36.7mm...


BTW - what type of crimping tool do you plan to use?
 
Thanks for the responses, some great info. I will adjust my plans to ensure the wiring is in the safe zones.
You are about to start work - have you submitted your Buildings Regulations approval request yet? If so, what did you say you would be doing in order to achieve compliance?

If not, were you aware that you are supposed to?
I was aware that I needed to notify LABC, but at the minute I'm trying to plan the work so that there are no problems to be picked up on. I'm not a cowboy DIYer and as such will be doing things in the correct manor.
BTW - what type of crimping tool do you plan to use?
I will be using a ratchet crimping tool.
 
Thanks for the advice. Do you think if I modify my original plans to include your advice I will be fully compliant?
 
From a design POV, yes, subject to the ring not ending up with unbalanced loads, or too long.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top