Kitchen wiring makes no sense!

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Derbyshire
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Hello- Ive recently bought a new house (about 11 years old) and Im installing a new kitchen. Ive decided to add a couple more double sockets and it has all left me confused as some of the existing sockets seem to have seperate fuse switches and others don't. Plus the electrics from the cosumer unit seem all over the place- in direction and the size of the fuses.
I'd like to get rid of the fuse switches all together. Any thoughts on this layout? Is it normal?

Consumer box:
1-Cooker. 16 amp (can't test this as old kitchen removed). Seems low ampage! May just go to extractor?
2-Lounge, stairs and external lights. 6 amp
3-No idea-doesn't seem to do anything when I turn it off. 6 amp
4-Upstairs lighting. 6 amp
8-Conservatory lighting AND sockets. 20 amp. Conservatory was added after house was built and I have a cert in my HIP. I think has seperate ring fuse next to a socket
9-Garage lighting AND sockets. 32 amp
10-Lounge and stairs sockets. 32 amp
11-Immersion heater. 16 amp
12-Kitchen AND upstairs sockets. 32 amp

Kitchen:
2x 'twin' sockets. Apprear to have internal 13 amp fuses
2x vent and heating controls fuse switches - 3 amp
3x single sockets below worktop level with fuse switches above with 13 amp fuses
1x cooker switch (I have no idea on the fuse on this one but it must be 45 amp....but there's a 32 amp in the consumer box!)

So, is this normal? What the heck is going on? Can I just remove the fuse switches from the single sockets if I replace with fused doubles?

Help!

Gaz
 
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The fused switches are to fuse down your appliances they are part of the ringmain with a single leg spurring off to each socket, to do away with them you just swap them for double sockets but then you would have to remove the spurred sockets, why dont you just use them?
 
If he replaces the fused switches with double sockets why would he have to get rid of the singles underneath the worktops? Obviously the fused switches are for local isolation of appliances without having to 'get behind' the appliance so wouldn't he be best to leave these in place and extend the ring?
Just curious.
 
Hi. Thanks for the reply.
Im looking to remove the fuse switches for aesthetic reason as much as anything. I understand what you are saying on dropping down for the appliances but to have a fuse switch about 20cm above a single switch seemed strange. I assume there are no single switches with fuses?
I will probably leave the switches in place and just leave them switched on.
Its the consumer unit which has got me more curious now with a 32 amp going to the kitchen and upstairs. I understand the sockets will drop the current as required with the individual fuses but surely the cooker should run on a 45 amp? Its either on the 32 amp ring or (if the writing on the consumer unit is to be believed) a 16 amp.
:rolleyes:
 
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Hmm. I am checking my screwfix cat and I can see 13amp single sockets. So, on the 1st point above, why have a fused switch at all? I can see the purpose to switch off the appliance easily but why have a fused switch and not just a switch? The fuse in the socket would bring the current down.
This is why electrics confuses me. Need an asparin. :cry:
 
I understand the sockets will drop the current as required with the individual fuses

I'm not sure you understand how a fuse works. Or electricity for that matter..

but surely the cooker should run on a 45 amp?

Why? Single ovens don't need anywhere near that. If it had more than a single oven, the 16A would've tripped, so clearly it had a single oven, protected by a 16A breaker.
 
This is why electrics confuses me.

Which begs the question, why are you doing it?
Electrics in general have to be carried out 'by a competent person,' which clearly by your statement you are not.
Also electrical work in kitchens is notifiable to the local authority.
I think the best advice you can get on here will be to engage a qualified electrician.
 
I'm not sure you understand how a fuse works. Or electricity for that matter..

No need for the sarcasm. Im well aware of how a fuse works and Im damn sure I know more about how a gas turbine generator works than 99% of people but I admit when it comes to household stuff, Im not experienced as you can tell-hence Im here asking questions to learn.

Why? Single ovens don't need anywhere near that. If it had more than a single oven, the 16A would've tripped, so clearly it had a single oven, protected by a 16A breaker.

That's interesting. The reason Ive presumed the current needed for a single over is based on all of the cooker switches Ive seen have been 45 amp. If 16 amp is enough then that solves that mytery and why there's no indication of a fuse on the current cooker switch.
 
I'm not sure you understand how a fuse works. Or electricity for that matter..

No need for the sarcasm. Im well aware of how a fuse works and Im damn sure I know more about how a gas turbine generator works than 99% of people but I admit when it comes to household stuff, Im not experienced as you can tell-hence Im here asking questions to learn.

Well fuses don't 'drop current'. They simply break on large amounts of it..

Why? Single ovens don't need anywhere near that. If it had more than a single oven, the 16A would've tripped, so clearly it had a single oven, protected by a 16A breaker.

That's interesting. The reason Ive presumed the current needed for a single over is based on all of the cooker switches Ive seen have been 45 amp. If 16 amp is enough then that solves that mytery and why there's no indication of a fuse on the current cooker switch.

Just because the switch is capable of breaking 45A, doesn't mean you can't use them on smaller loads. The average single oven is 13A or 16A, with all elements on (which you won't see outside of a pyro cleaning cycle), most of them can be plugged into a (good quality) socket.
 
Which begs the question, why are you doing it?
Electrics in general have to be carried out 'by a competent person,' which clearly by your statement you are not.
Also electrical work in kitchens is notifiable to the local authority.
I think the best advice you can get on here will be to engage a qualified electrician.

I've no intention of doing it myself, never would. I simply like to learn about things I have no experience of and to then have an idea of what it is I'm talking about when I speak to the professional who is doing whichever job it is I'm discussing with them, that's all.
 
I didn't notice any sarcasm in Monkeh's reply and yes, you may well know more about gas turbine generators then 99% of people on here. A doctor will know more about the human body than 99% of people on here.
And he, like you, is entitled to come on here and ask for help. However, in any walk of life if a person asks for help/advice then they must be prepared to accept that they may hear things they don't want to.
 
Does your CU have RCD protection?

Actually, can we see some pictures of the CU (with cover on and off), and the kitchen bits? Especially these fused double sockets..
 
Well fuses don't 'drop current'. They simply break on large amounts of it..quote]

Fair point, poor language on my part

Just because the switch is capable of breaking 45A, doesn't mean you can't use them on smaller loads. The average single oven is 13A or 16A, with all elements on (which you won't see outside of a pyro cleaning cycle), most of them can be plugged into a (good quality) socket.

Fair point.

Is it normal for a kitchen 'ring main' to be the same as the one upstairs in the bedrooms? I wasn't expecting that.
 
Not uncommon. I've got a ring for half the kitchen and most of the rest of the house, and a second one for the other side of the kitchen, one (large) bedroom, and a fused spur for a heater in the downstairs shower.

If you've got the access, I'd run a new 20A radial or two for the kitchen and not use the ring.
 
I didn't notice any sarcasm in Monkeh's reply and yes, you may well know more about gas turbine generators then 99% of people on here. A doctor will know more about the human body than 99% of people on here.

The phrase '...you don't know what electricity is..' is a little sarcastic, don't you think? I mention the fact about GTGs as a retort to the comment as there wouldn't be much electricity without them, not as a random fact.
Anyway, moving back to the reason for my request for advise....
 

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