Kubex shower repair..help please!

[Navy]

I was trying to repair my Aqualisa shower valve but the rusted screws in the body proved too hard to remove and as such I damaged the body. The valve was attached to the wall and passed through the Kubex shower cubicle. Not sure why they didn't use a exposed shower valve in the first place. I plan to buy a simple cigar shaped shower mixer so that it will be easier to fit and replace. However, I have approx 3 inch hole where the old valve was situated and I am unsure how best to repair this being that its plastic and chipboard.

I thought maybe a chrome plate of some sort screwed over the hole would be o.k but unsure if this would be ok and where to buy it from.

I have uploaded some photos which may help.

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• Navy
• 18 Dec 2012
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• 18 Dec 2012
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• 18 Dec 2012
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Many thanks in advance

 

[Burnerman]

Obviously its up to you what you decide to do, but both Aqualisa and Mira both continue to produce built in showers with a large chrome escutcheon plate, (very similar to your original) and with quality stuff like this the spares will be available for years to come.
With careful assembly (such as grease on the screws etc) you could guarantee that any replacement unit could be dismantled in the future.
John

 

[Navy]

Your absolutely right!!. My Aqualisa valve lasted for around 20 years before it started leaking. Shame about the plastic body though.

I guess with all the trouble I've had to get this far I just feel I would rather have the complete valve and flexi shower hose in the shower. Pulling the Kubek out was a real pain.

Thanks for replying though

 

[Burnerman]

I do understand what you mean for future ease of maintenance etc but I can't really think of anything you could patch the hole with that wouldn't look just like a patch, if you see what I mean.....
One way around it may be to cover the hole with a soap dish attachment or similar.
John

 

[Navy]

Hmmm. One thought I was playing with was the possibility of inserting a 10mm shaped disc back into the hole and glued into position. Then cutting a square section of plastic only and slightly larger than the hole from the rear of the Kubex ( against wall/not visible ) and applying it on the inside over the repair using clear silicone sealant.
O.k I know that it won't be smooth and it will have a sanded edge. But it will look pretty good I think. I suppose I could try and cut the plastic circular and get a close fit.

Not sure.

Would really prefer some sort of chrome plate

Thanks for thinking about my problem

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Do you need something like this? Or am I barking up the wrong tree? End plug for rails, top caps from taps, etc

 

[Navy]

Thanks...Jobandknock.

Got me all excited there for a moment. Unfortunately 40mm will be too small. I'm in the market for 80mm and above but the thinking is bang on!!

Cheers mate

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Oh dear! Sorry about that - you didn't say how big...... The only thing I can think of which comes in that size are some of the holes drilled in desks for cable management. I've used 80mm holes before (still have the holesaw), together with chromed cover caps which will close, but i can't for the life of me remember where they came from. Similar to these, but as I say chromed and would close completely

 

[Navy]

Ah ha...I know exactly the part your talking about. Now that's a brilliant idea. I'll try google and see if I can come up with a supplier or maybe a shopfitter may have some idea.

Nice one jobandknock, I really appreciate you taking the time to think about my problem and come up with possible solution.

I'll keep you updated!!

 

[Navy]

Hello everyone and sorry for the delay in updating you.

What a pain this has been.

I was lucky though to find a 12mm laminated chipboard which I cut out and shaped to a close fit as possible in the hole. That took ages to get right. A friend also donated a Trevi blend shower valve which has a really large coverplate which fits nicely over the repaired hole.

However, after inspecting under the floor I noticed that none of the copper pipes had insulation ( probably why the cold feed iced up a few years back ) which I sorted out by pulling up a section of floor in and outside the bathroom. This was nicely complemented by 3 ball valves leaking and one damaged waste pipe ( stepped on ).

Hopefully, the finishing line is in site.

Included are some photos which show what I am on about.

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• 12 Feb 2013
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Thanks again to all those that that helped

 

[Burnerman]

Excellent outcome! You should be well pleased.
Are you really part of the Grey Funnel line?
John

 

[Navy]

Thanks Bunerman, just really glad to get this done. If by grey funnel line you mean insulation then yeah, I'm in!!!!!
That stuff takes seconds to fit during installation and costs under a tenner. Why leave it out???? with all the hassel of a potential burst pipe it makes no sense to me.

Anyway, thanks for the approval

 

[Burnerman]

Sorry - just looking at your user name, I thought you may have been in Her Majesty's senior service.....
Brill job anyway.
John