Laminate flooring up against fitted wardrobes

[KFZ]

Hi forum,
Looking for a neat way to but up my new bedroom (3x5m) laminate floor against existing built in wardrobes. Normally i would lay the floor first, but in the case we are replacing carpet and removing the wardrobes with major damage to them seems difficult.

Unfortunately the wardrobes are not a straight edge and i find the commercial edging straps ugly. (i always lift skirts (oo-err vicar )when laying laminate)

my options as i see it are.

1. No gap, leave a big gap at other end of room and hope the humidity changes dont ruin the floor.

2.Leave a small gap (1-3mm) and caulk the joint, leaving a large gap at other end.

3. Make a bespoke edge strip to cover gap

I am fairly competent woodworker with access to an equipped shop.

TIA

Kev

 

[Belboz]

How much plinth does the fitted wardrobe have?

 

[KFZ]

How much plinth does the fitted wardrobe have?

Hi belboz,

Quite high about 5 inches. Assume 3/4 thickness. No visible means of removal, sure it's chock blocked in form inside under the wardrobe floor.

Kev

 

[Belboz]

If I were you, I would be tempted to make a moulding which would look as if it had been fitted with the wardrobe/plinth.

I think normal quadrant or similar wouldn't look right but a moulding which fitted onto the plinth and hid the laminate gap could look good.

Have you a pic of the base of the wardrobes?

Routing a moulding from stock to your own design and then colouring accordingly would be relatively easy if, as you say, you have access to a shop.

Have a few ideas but need a pic to visualise....

B

 

[KFZ]

Pics...

Built in wardrobe to right and dresser,desk to left. The plinth is approx 5 inch.

Untitled

• KFZ
• 1 Apr 2015
• 1

 

[Belboz]

Is that drawer unit recessed? difficult to tell.

I would still be tempted to for some form of moulding (your choice) which you can adapt from plain wood or mdf cut to length then routed. Whether the drawer unit is recessed or not, you can fit the moulding to the plinths thereby covering the laminate gap.

You may have to do a bit of fiddling to get the moulding to sit on some parts without a gap because I see a couple of places where the leading edges sit slightly proud of the plinth. Not be very much so I think a good sanding rather than a chisel would be needed so the moulding sits flush.

With a blank canvass you can choose whatever moulding pattern you like and make it in the shop. Your only limits are the height of the plinths (I would suggest you need to make the moulding just under the height of the lowest plinth) and the need to make the plinth depth wide enough to cover the laminate gap at the base.

Does that make sense?

B

 

[KFZ]

B, yep that's the plan. Laminate now fitted. I've got some detail work to do in other room so will make up the beading then. Slim L profile seems unobtrusive.

Untitled

• KFZ
• 4 Apr 2015
• 1

 

[Belboz]

Nice!