Large cap between toilet outlet and waste pipe

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Hello.
This is really a follow on to a question I asked yesterday about a Leaking joint between toilet and Waste pipe. I have now managed to dig out the old filler (looks like putty). I am now left with a cap around the glazed porcelain toilet pipe and the lead waste pipe (porcelain pipe pushes into the lead pipe). This gap is about 1/2" by 1/2". I obviously want something that will stop leaks, fill this gap and will stick to porcelain and lead (fairly clean, but probably still a bit dirty) and will dry in wet/damp conditions (water leaks from the gap when the toilet is flushed, but only a few drips.). Personally I would think something cement based? I do not want to fill this gap and then find the toilet still leaks, as I would probably not be able to dig the filer out again.
Thanks for help.
Paul
 
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I fixed my mother's toilet 10 years or more ago. Exactly the same senario. Hasn't leaked since.

I cleaned and dried the joint well with a hair drier and the used a good quality bathroom silicone to fill the gap. Didn't flush the loo for at least 12 hrs.

Best done last thing at night with a bucket handy for emergency use.
 
Grandad used to use a "putty and paint" mix. Sticky as.... and never sets.
Silicone would be a bit permanent. I suppose if that mattered you could use plumbers mait, covered with a ring of silicone. Some ribbed rubber sleeve might be better, if there is one the right size.
 
I can never find a ribbed rubber sleeve to fit, I don't know why they make them so big ;)
 
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ChrisR said:
Grandad used to use a "putty and paint" mix. Sticky as.... and never sets.
Silicone would be a bit permanent. I suppose if that mattered you could use plumbers mait, covered with a ring of silicone. Some ribbed rubber sleeve might be better, if there is one the right size.
Think I might try the paint and putty method first and if this does not work try the Silicone method. Assume "Modern" paints mix ok with putty?
Thanks.
Paul
 
Normal putty, not the one for metal windows, and a little gloss paint (normal alkyd stuff). Putty is poorly controlled these days so the amount of paint required could vary a lot, so you need to test. It's gooey.

I admire your wishing to stick to the conventional method! If you siliconed it I'm sure it would work. You'd have to smash the pot to get the pan out, but that would only be when you want to change it anyway?
 
The dinsaurs would wrap three turns of tarred twine around the spigot and caulked it into the socket so tight it was waterproof.

The red lead/putty or later paint and putty was a decorative finish.
 

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