Latex Screed on another Latex Screed

[utterlydiy]

I have just had my Kitchen/Dinerfloor screeded by a friend using Ultra Level It Super 30. Mixed as instructed with Latex. Also an adhesive was laid first for the Screed which was applied when the adhesive cured as tacky.

But the surface didnot turn out as good as expected although it looked good while wet. It has ridge lines at various places across the floor as I am using Vinyl wood effect strips the finish has to be near perfect.

It has to be done again and I want to use a screed that has longer setting time such as 2.5hrs rather than 30mins for the super 30, giving more time to spread and level using a spikey roller.

He tells me that whichever screed we use (Ultra have several) it must be from the same Manufacturer.

Correct or Incorrect ??

 

[Deleted member 174758]

I agree with your friend. Mixing suppliers/screed type is asking for trouble. Have you contacted the original supplier for advice? Also you can level off ridges using an rubbing brick, you know

 

[utterlydiy]

Thanks,

But I think it needs alittle more than that, got mounds and dips etc along with the ridges.

With the screed, there is not a supplier in the area. I am using the same two mix adhesive as before as whats left over, just it will maybe another manufacturers latex based screed from a local supplier.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

But I think it needs a little more than that, got mounds and dips etc along with the ridges.

Crickey! What did your friend do? The stuff may be sold as "self-levelling" but the reality is that you need to float it out over the floor with a large float so that it's within a couple of millimetres of flat. It will then "self level".... BUT, you have very limited time to do this with all the materials I've used/seen used. Probably no more than 15 minutes.

With the screed, there is not a supplier in the area. I am using the same two mix adhesive as before as whats left over, just it will maybe another manufacturers latex based screed from a local supplier.

Ask your supplier about compatibility. Not saying it won't work but I've seen a few right c*ck-ups caused by people just going ahead and slapping stuff down

 

[dazlight]

Did you prime the floor, you need to re prime it before you screed it again. Screeding takes years to learn and get it prefect. If your laying Karndean or another LVT then I'd advise getting a pro in.
If not

Have someone mixing the screed for you and use it straighmt away. Use the trowel and spike roll the whole floor while wet. Water mix screeds flow a lot better then bag & bottles.

 

[utterlydiy]

OK

Been in touch with Supplier and found someone who stocks "Ultra Level IT 2" and Latex in our area, the manufacturer suggests to use "Level IT AR" as a primer before laying the screed.

 

[dazlight]

Not used there products but heard they are very good.
When a floor is primed the screed flows a lot better too which will help.

 

[utterlydiy]

OK got Level IT 2.

As this comes complete with units of Latex for mixing, could I use water for the mix instead of the latex.

As it seems the Latex mix has a thicker viscosity more so than water mixes as seen on YouTube making it easier to self level without working at it too much.

 

[dazlight]

No you can't mate

 

[utterlydiy]

I wished Latex leveling compound had never been mentioned or used.

It was suggested to use Level IT super 30 firstly, because it dries to walk on in 30mins. My friend who used this for his kitchen and separate dining room was half the size of mine. When he laid it, it looked good while wet. But when dried, it had more ridges than the Rockies.

So after being advised I had to use the same manufactures leveling compound to recover the ridged floor. I went for Level IT 2, which supposingly has a working time of 20/25mins. to enable more time to work on it to a leveled surface and dries in 2/3hrs.

This started going off quicker than the super 30 and still not very forgiving when troweling as it still don't flow much to level itself, but the finish was better.

Now I have to make a choice of trying to make good with alittle grinding the odd bad areas and fill with some type of filler. Or dis-regard what is said about using the same manufacturer compound and go for a water based leveling compound. As the finish has to be good for the Vinyl strips as any imperfections will come through in time.

Watching Youtube video's, it looks so easy where they just pour in small quantities and leave it to level itself without the use of a trowel.

To put me out of my misery, what filler compound could I use to repair the surface or could I go for a water based compound on top of the latex compound disregarding advice.

Thanks

 

[utterlydiy]

Re- Above

I have some of the Level IT 2 left over, but this is a Latex compound with its own 5 litre additive and is really not as runny as you might expect. They say not to add water to the mix.

Could I use a runny Portland cement mix to repair small areas.

Thanks

 

[dazlight]

What you need to do now is rub the floor down with a sander.
Then put a scratch coat of feather finish down

 

[mattysupra]

Different brands etc dont matter. You as the installer has to test and decide if what ever the subfloor is or has on it is suitable to have a smoothing compound laid.


So dont worry about mixing compounds. What you should worry about is that the , what ever compound you use over the top has to have a lower strength to what its bonding to.

also for a LVT product you really want to be looking at a compound with over 20nm strength.

So lets say you used a 25nm compound the first time around. This means that you have to use a compound with 25nm and less strength on the re-screed.

When switching to a water based compound you need to ensure that the subfloors moisture content is less than 75% RH.

 

[utterlydiy]

Ok thanks guys.

Final question before which route to take with thd floor.

As I've been lead that the same brand must bused as started and as this brand is supplied with its own 5ltrs of additive which controls the thickness of the mix.

Could I replace the additive to create a mix of my choice.

Thanks

 

[mattysupra]

No.

The additive (latex i presume) is the correct ratio for the compound. Adding or removing any will change the compounds strength and how it flows. It has nothing to do with the thickness.

If you was to only do a half mix you need to weigh the compound and latex so you end with the same ratio.