Laying solid Oak floor.

[silverstar84]

In the next couple of months once I have the decorating finished in my lounge, I am planning on laying down a solid oak floor (engineered). So am doing a little planning.

This is the situation:

The floor is 2/3 tongue and grooved floorboards which are all in good nick and level. The other 1/3 of the floor is concrete (this section of the room is the old hall way where we have knocked though into, installed an RSJ etc). The house is a very late 40's very early 50's house and therefore won't have an DPM in the concrete, it just looks like it has been backfilled with old bricks rubbel and then concrete poured ontop. I have levelled the floor now so it is level with the floor boards with a latex SLC.

I plan to lay a vapour barier/plastic DPM sheet ontop of the concrete then use the Wickes 5mm fibre underlay @ 45 degrees to the direction to boards will run. I will just put the underlay directly on the floorboards. Does this sound like a good plan or any better suggestions from you pro's? I have seen the silver underlay with inbuilt DPM but this is only 3mm and isn't as tolerable to imperfections in the sub floor.

Also is it recommended to glue the joints on the oak or just leave it pushed together dry?

 

[crazydaze]

Firstly you need to decide if you are laying a solid oak floor OR n Engineered floor, two completely different floors with different installation techniques and different charactaristics as to how the floors will perform when installed.

 

[HMCFlooring]

Be interesting to see what advise you get

 

[mac391]

As it is an engineered floor you're planning on... (understand that engineered isn't solid) 4mm foil backed underlay for the concrete area (joints sealed) and 4mm standard underlay (no foil) for the floorboard area. If you buy a click system then no glue required,. If it is not a click system then glue is required for the joints.

If your subfloor is so uneven as not to accept this underlay either level the floors or buy a carpet !!!