Laying Vinyl flooring in Bathroom

[graham turner]

Would like professional advice on the following please:

My Daughter has laminate flooring in her bathroom.
Due to a water leak from concealed toilet cistern the laminate flooring edges on a number of the boards have been damaged.

The floor is tongue and groove.
I propose removing the laminate totally.
I would remove the toilet pan giving me a more or less clear floor space.
I hope then to re-place with vinyl sheeting.(Granddaughter into splashing).

I would like to know what is best to cover the T & G floor boards with either hard board or ply.

Any further advice on thickness and securing to T & G would be gratefully appreciated.

Many thanks.

Graham Turner

 

[big-all]

hardboard well nailed every 6 or 8" in a grid pattern butted up tight

 

[Symptoms]

graham - if you nail the sheeting* down to the floorboards use annular (ring shank) nails so they won't pull out. Use nails which are shorter than the combined depth of the sheeting + floorboard thickness; this avoids the danger of hitting cables or pipes below.

*also consider using exterior grade ply (WBP)

 

[graham turner]

big-all and symptoms

Thanks for responding and will use your advice.

Many thanks

Graham Turner

 

[mattysupra]

as symptons has suggested, use plywood!

 

[breezer]

when our floor was done he used hardboard, but turned it smooth side down, then sprayed it with "glue" to keep the vinyl still.

must be about 2 years now since it was done, sitll fine

 

[mattysupra]

hardboard is moister sensitive so always better to upgrade to plywood. Also you should not glue floor coverings to hardboard so again its better to just lay plywood so it covers what ever you want to do in the future!

Plus vinyl should not be glued down unless its comercial vinyl. You can get a vinyl spray adhesive that is designed for the diy trade! However, if glueing vinyl you should use the correct acrlic/epoxy glue and trowel (normaly 1.5 mm )

 

[graham turner]

hardboard is moister sensitive so always better to upgrade to plywood. Also you should not glue floor coverings to hardboard so again its better to just lay plywood so it covers what ever you want to do in the future!

Plus vinyl should not be glued down unless its comercial vinyl. You can get a vinyl spray adhesive that is designed for the diy trade! However, if glueing vinyl you should use the correct acrlic/epoxy glue and trowel (normaly 1.5 mm )

Mattysupra
Thanks for your advice. Did a bit more research and decided to go with the plywood. The vinyl will be coming from Carpetright or Allied Carpets so will have to research more on the adhesive aspect.
Many thnks again

Graham Turner

 

[mattysupra]

it should be loose laid in a domestic area unless your fitting lino or comercial vinyl, i dont think the two named supplies do contract so will be loose lay.

 

[graham turner]

it should be loose laid in a domestic area unless your fitting lino or comercial vinyl, i dont think the two named supplies do contract so will be loose lay.

Mattysupra

Thanks for coming back and will follow your advice.
Many thanks

Graham Turner

 

[johnny56789]

Although they say to loose lay your vinyl I would personally double side the perimeter first (including round all pans) as this makes cutting in and pushing out the ripples much easier and neater, also make sure you warm your vinyl up before fitting as will make life easier.
Finish with clear silicone.
It may not be the manufacturers way but it works much better if you make sure youve well and truely pushed all the ripples out.

 

[mattysupra]

there is a reason why the manufactories state not to perimeter stick vinyl! , also dont get the vinyl warmer than the area it is being fitted in, but do get it to room temperature tho.

 

[johnny56789]

I'd like to know the reason, have 100s of very happy customers over the years and Id love to see a diy fitter try an even slightly tricky bathroom loose laying it! With some vinyls this is pretty much impossible as any vinyl fitter will tell you.

 

[mattysupra]

you could use a strip of tape and then remove it if you find it easer to fit. Most find it harder when stuck down tho!

However, most lads i train like to template the vinyl in difficult areas the same as you have to fit safty vinyl or lino.

Main reason for loose lay in to stop the vinyl bubbing in the center when it grows with heat change. This is why you should cut it short by a couple of mm. However it is possible to tape just two walls if a small area (walls 90 degrees to each other).

Also the tape you use if doing the two wall method should be 'anti~plas' tape which i dont think you can buy from a diy outlet. If using normall double sided it will plastasize (not sure of the spelling on that one) which basically means it will discolour lighter coloured vinyl along with turning into a horrible sticky goo underneath.

 

[johnny56789]

Great advice on the type of tape...
Learnt that the hard way many years ago.
Just a question, what do you do about sealing the vinyl?
Silicone or not?