Lead Flashing, Outside Corners

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Hi all,
I am re flashing part of my roof, that was very badly done with flash band.
I am replacing it all with proper lead flashing
There garage that joins onto the gable end of the house, and is about half the height of the main building, then there is an extension that runs along the back of the house.
So I need to run my flashing down the garage roof, through 90 degrees and along the extension.
But I can no find out for the life of me how to do an outside corner in lead.
I am aware that you can buy pre fabricated corners and also lead can be welded, but I want to do this in the traditional manner.
Cant find anything useful on the net, and have spent hours with bits of cardboard trying to figure it out.
Can anyone tell me this deep dark secret
Thanks in advance, Nick.
 
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cardboard won`t help ;) roll out some pastry - that`s the principle involved , moving the lead around by bossing it :idea: try googling bossing lead or look at the Lead Sheet association . And use plastic bossing tools - they don`t mark the lead like " traditional " wood ones
 
Can anyone tell me this deep dark secret

To be honest lead bossing is a very skilled art and although flashing are perhaps the easiest thing to do you will in all probability split the lead until you get the hang of it.

Remember that lead flashings need to be installed using maximum 1.8m lengths of lead. I keep seeing loads of examples where some-one tries to use longer lengths only for it to split in a few years due to no allowance for movement.

These days you can get clips to secure the lead in brick joints or you could use traditional lead wedges if you want some more work with it
 
Blagard is right although I think he made a typo. The longest length you can use for a peice of flashing is 1.5 metres. Use code 4 or code 5.
A picture of the area you are trying to flash would further enable us to give you the correct advice on what to do.
 
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Blagard is right although I think he made a typo. The longest length you can use for a peice of flashing is 1.5 metres. Use code 4 or code 5.

Not a typo just wrong. - I am still living in the dark ages when it was 6'
Todays standards are as you have corrected 1.5m

Code 4 for a flashing is fine

The code numbers are a hang over from old days to. Code 4 lead weighs approx 4 pounds per square foot. and so on.

More info for those interested
http://www.britishlead.co.uk/downloads/fitting-guides2.pdf
 
Hi Gents,
Thanks for you replies
Have already got the lead, cant remember what code it is, but I'm sure its ok. I was born in 63 so I'm quite happy with old money or new money, in fact I have been known to ask for something 6" x 2" x 1.5m long !
To dark to get a pic now, but I'm going up there in the morning to cut the chase, So I will snap the corner in question.
Cheers,

Nick.
 
BLUE TAPE IS CODE 4 = FINE
RED TAPE = CODE 5 = FINE
GREEN TAPE = CODE 3 = TAKE IT BACK, SWAP FOR THE ABOVE.
 
Morning gents,
The roll I have is code 5

I have attached a picture showing the corner

It is the right hand (outside corner)

Jist ignore the tannalised wood.
Originally the tiles stopped about 1 tiles width from the wall
The flashband was stretched across this gap, then covered over with motar in the wall.

This left a 1" deep 4" high channel in the wall
This would have been awkward to fill then chase because of the old brick behind.
So I have fastened a length of tannalised wood to the wall, and cut the chase above that.
I am happy with that, its just how to dress the lead around that corner.

Cheers,

Nick
 
Open the guide I linked to, scroll down to page numbered 22 and look at side flashing - ignore the cuts for steps otherwise it is what you want.

Glad you got code 5 - less risk of splitting more material to stretch!
 
Yes, you will need code 5 for that if you are going to boss it.
To be honest, I am a leadworker and I would always cut and weld this kind of detail as it would be quicker, stronger and last longer. I could boss it, but it is pointless.
If you still intend to boss it then I would advise you to use seperate pieces of lead for the internal and external corners. Concentrate on getting the standing corners done first berfore you turn it into the chase. It would be very difficult to explain here exactly what is involved, but good on you for having a go.
Good luck.
 
Thanks for the advice gents,
I will let you know how I get on. Probably be the weekend now.
If I make a mess of it I may need some suggestions on where I could get it welded up.

Cheers,

Nick.
 

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