Lead paint testing kits

L

longdogs

Can anyone advise me where the f**k I can buy a lead paint testing kit. I've been reading all the articles on lead paint and how I will grow another head unless I drop all my belongings in a vat of acid afterwards. So I thought ok, I'll buy a tester but most of them seem to be from the US and the reasonably priced ones you can get have poor reviews. The sheds no longer seem to do them. It's as though no one will commit to selling a tester. I also object to some laboratory assistant dropping a flake of paint in a test tube and charging a hundred quid. The paint I am trying to strip (on internal panelling circa 1920) only has two coats but is a b*****d to remove. I would like to use a heat gun but apparently that also can cause lead fumes.

What's really (really) annoying me is that I still don't know if its all just the usual Elf N safety b******s or whether I really will grow lead soldiers out my ears.

This lead s**t is driving me bonkers. I just want to sand it down FFS.

RANT OVER!

Any advice would be most welcomed along with a cup of coacoa to relax me. ;)

Thanks
 
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I had the the same situation as you, very old paint that I want to remove and I was not sure if it was lead paint! I managed to find a testing kit on eBay, made by 3M I think it was about £5, I will see if I can find the link.
It worked a treat and told me I have lead paint!! I brought a Bahco paint scraper, which is brilliant on removing the paint.
I am sure B&Q had them listed on the online site, but they won't deliver to where I am.
 
Thanks Tigger90.
I had a look at the 3M stuff but again it all seems to be from America with a £9 postage charge for a £5 product. All links to UK supplies seem to be broken as though no one is prepared to sell it, perhaps for fear of people taking them to court.
 
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Yeah I was hoping for a negative, but nope it came up red! Not surprising the paint is about 130 years old, but lovely pitch line underneath
 
The problem with those testers is that, if there is a layer of darker paint under the surface coat, you can end up with a false reading. Many coloured paints use red pigments to make the final colour. Also, especially with older houses, there is often a layer of stain/varnish that can cause a pinkish-red tinge to appear on the tester. IIRC, Nitromors even had a disclaimer on the tester about using it on coloured paints.

Hope that doesn't occur in your case! :cautious:
 
Yes, I see what you mean. I do actually have a layer of varnish on the wood. It seems that there is plenty of advice on the internet about what not to do but nothing about what you should do.
 
Yes, I think you hit the nail on the head in your first post - nobody will commit to selling a test that will give a definitive answer. I suppose the only real way is to get a lab test but, even when you send a few flakes in from one area of what you intend to strip, who is to say another area may not have had a coat of lead paint?

Safest method I have used a few times since the chemical paint-stripper changes (and I always tried to avoid stripping whenever possible) is to use a heat gun at or below 450°C, which is the official temperature for safe burning, so as not to release the lead fumes. I also used a respirator with P2 filters and allowed the paint to fall onto damp newspaper, wrapped it up and sealed it all into a bin bag, so as not to release any dried flakes into the surrounding environment. (Don't tell anyone but I failed to wear the right mask the first time! :whistle:)
That is the official (HSE, Defra), correct method for lead paint removal - easier said than done though.
 
I'm sure anyone of a certain age has done it and still here to tell the tale. I wonder what will be next to enter the twilight zone, probably MDF now that everyone is mildly aware of it's dangers. I suppose in the future you will have to hire companies to remove it.

just out of interest does anyone know why lead was added to paint in the first place.
 
Just as an update for googlers:

I tried the Nitromors lead testing kit and the area turned red instantly, proving that lead was present. I decided in the end to go down the heat gun route. Bought an excellent heat gun from Screwfix, wore a mask and opened all the windows and doors. The heat gun removed the paint easily even on the low heat setting (350). Cleaning up was easy, no dust and minimal fumes.

Thanks all
 
I came across this site while looking into problems of toxic paints that contain arsenic.

http://www.ebssurvey.co.uk/news/18/63/Investigating-Arsenic-Contamination-in-Historic-Buildings.html

The Site Hazard Assessment service will include any or all of the following, tailored to your particular project:

  • Testing for Arsenic in historic paintwork, insecticide & pesticides treated wood
  • Testing for Anthrax in animal hair hidden within lath & plaster
  • Mould levels, including identification for pathogenic & toxic moulds
  • Lead levels in paint work
  • Hazardous dust assessment & fibrous materials (other than asbestos) – samples collected as necessary
  • Electrical components for possible PCB or mercury presence – visual assessment
  • Timber treatment chemical assessment
Click to expand...
 
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