Leading edge v trailing edge dimmers

[ey143]

I’ll be installing dimmable GU10 across my home and was looking at the BG electrical range of black nickel light switches and sockets.

I notice that their dimmer switches are leading edge rather than trailing edge though in all likelihood I’ll probably be buying a normal light switch and adding a smart device behind the switch to control it from my phone etc.

That said, what consideration do I need to give with the leading edge and trailing edge? What’s it all about and how might it impact me? I’m also installing led light strips in areas too.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

That said, what consideration do I need to give with the leading edge and trailing edge? What’s it all about and how might it impact me? I’m also installing led light strips in areas too.

The dimmer type, needs to be matched to the type the LED lamp needs, but few if any lamp specs. mention this. Some dimmers can be configured to do either, I have two which automate the process - I have no idea how they determine which type to configure themselves as, but my two work.

 

[ericmark]

I have removed three of the five smart switches, as they have failed, to remove means turning off the power, and clearly waiting until daylight, real pain when they go wrong, so moved to built into bulb type, as if it fails, simple unplug and plug in new.

I remember the 80's and the move to dimmer switches, but should not dim quartz bulbs as it reduces their life, and compact fluorescent in the main would not dim, so all old dimmer switches went, only since LED has dimming returned, and with smart bulbs no need for switches.

In hot countries there was a move to 1/3 and 2/3 lighting so simple on/off gives three levels of lighting, with multi-GU10 this is likely the best option.

 

[winston1]

I’ll be installing dimmable GU10 across my home and was looking at the BG electrical range of black nickel light switches and sockets.

Pretty pointless as black nickel matching plugs are not available.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

In hot countries there was a move to 1/3 and 2/3 lighting so simple on/off gives three levels of lighting, with multi-GU10 this is likely the best option.

Why hot countries, I have seen this in the UK, along with series parallel arrangements.

 

[winston1]

In the USA twin filament bulbs were common, a typical size was 40 and 60 watt or both together for 100W. A special ES base was used with an additional contact ring. I believe a CFL version has been made available, perhaps even LED now.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

In the USA twin filament bulbs were common, a typical size was 40 and 60 watt or both together for 100W. A special ES base was used with an additional contact ring. I believe a CFL version has been made available, perhaps even LED now.

I once came across a BC style base with three contacts, and three pins offset to ensure it could only be installed one way.

Car stop plus rear lights combined two filaments, with two offset pins.

 

[ericmark]

Why hot countries, I have seen this in the UK, along with series parallel arrangements.

In the main in hot countries they use air conditioners to cool so extra lights cost more to run, moving the CPF then LED also made more sense, in the UK during summer lights used less and in Winter the inferred likely saves energy, so moving to LED is mainly to reduce maintenance rather than energy.

Seen the series/parallel arrangement for cine lamps but that is more to reduce bulb shock and increase bulb life.

Used BAY15d bulbs in cars, but not in the home, but can see how looks better if all lamps seem to be lit. But today smart lamps have made these methods unnecessary.

 

[winston1]

In the main in hot countries they use air conditioners to cool so extra lights cost more to run, moving the CPF then LED also made more sense, in the UK during summer lights used less and in Winter the inferred likely saves energy,

It does not save energy. The energy requirement to heat the room is the same whether it comes from light bulbs plus radiators or radiators alone. The bit of energy produced by electricity from light bulbs costs 4 times the cost of producing it from gas fired central heating.
Bottom line extra lights cost more to run in both hot and cold countries.

 

[ericmark]

The bit of energy produced by electricity from light bulbs costs 4 times the cost of producing it from gas fired central heating.

The cost of bottles of gas will vary country to country, as will the cost of electricity, since the reference was to warmer countries clearly not talking about UK prices. Also there is the problems in transporting gas, it is far more convenient to use something supplied by wires than some thing supplied by truck.

Saving money and saving energy are not the same, if you want a person to feel warm then to warm the air to say 18°C and use inferred to make it feel like 20°C will likely save energy as it means less energy is lost with air changes, than to heat the air to 20°C and use no inferred.

47 kg of Propane costs around £70, at 50.3 KJ/kg x 0.277778 = 656.695 kWh = approx 11 pence per kWh with electric costing around 18 pence per kWh so yes electric is more expensive in the UK to gas, assuming gas not piped to the area, but not 4 times the cost.

It does beg the question if gas ½ price to electric why use electric cars? The answer is of course tax. I am sure when cleaning fluid was first used in a Car to power it there was very little tax on the cleaning fluid "ligroin" used in the first motor tricycle.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

The cost of bottles of gas will vary country to country, as will the cost of electricity, since the reference was to warmer countries clearly not talking about UK prices. Also there is the problems in transporting gas, it is far more convenient to use something supplied by wires than some thing supplied by truck.

I wasn't aware, at least until JohnW2 himself realised and pointed it out, that all energy prices vary depending on where in the UK you happen to live - so variations are not just limited to that between countries.

 

[ericmark]

I wasn't aware, at least until JohnW2 himself realised and pointed it out, that all energy prices vary depending on where in the UK you happen to live - so variations are not just limited to that between countries.

When checking prices on the internet to ensure my facts were reasonably correct I did note the difference area to area. I know in North Wales those who used oil had to pay for delivery on top of the oil price, here in Mid Wales delivery is included in the price.

But even I at 70 can only remember the gas fittings on the wall for lighting, never remember them being used, remember the radiant gas fires in some of the places I worked and the chains to turn them on/off dangling from the fires, but don't remember them being used.

Only gas lighting I remember in use was in caravans, and yes you could control light output, not sure if a leading edge or trailing edge gas tap! But be it a gas lamp or tungsten lamp when dimmed there was also a colour charge, this gave some ambiance, using dimmer switches with LED only the light output changes, colour remains the same, however with the Smart LED bulb you also have some control over colour again. So it seems using wall mounted dimmers gives less control to using a smart bulb, however using a wall switch is often faster.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

But even I at 70 can only remember the gas fittings on the wall for lighting, never remember them being used, remember the radiant gas fires in some of the places I worked and the chains to turn them on/off dangling from the fires, but don't remember them being used.

I can just about remember one house on railway property, which had no electric supply having gas lighting, plus other public railway property/goods yards etc..

My uncles rather remote farm, on the Yorks/Lancs border had neither gas nor electricity, they used those low pressure Tilley lamps with mantles and a log fire.

 

[SUNRAY]

I once came across a BC style base with three contacts, and three pins offset to ensure it could only be installed one way.

Car stop plus rear lights combined two filaments, with two offset pins.

my daughter temporarily rented a flat and on moving in day the hall light CFL blew (I imagine got knocked with a bed etc), as a quick fix a bulb from another room was used, and I knotted the cable to raise it during moving in. When I tried to fit a replacement I found it was 3 pin BC and all in the property were. As it happened I had a standard 2 pin bulbholder in the car...

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

https://www.thelightbulb.co.uk/cap-base/3-pin-bc/