Leaked ceiling bow fixed but damaged.

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We had a leak over the years caused that side of the ceiling to become like that

However th leak it now sorted.

I just want to do some cheap DIY to make the ceiling look 'decent' from that side.

I don't want to spend too much money on it.

I have attached a picture for you to have a look at


Thanks for any info.
20250408_122540.jpg
 
OP,
The leak appeared to be in a Bay ceiling - is there a room above or a bay roof?
 
OP,
The leak appeared to be in a Bay ceiling - is there a room above or a bay roof?

Hi mate
Yes you're right that portion of the roof is where the bay window is . And above it is bay roof with slates on it.
 
Is it plasterboard or lath and plaster? If you push against the ceiling does it move or is it all stable?
 
I did put a chandelier in that rom it was plasterboard and lath. .. all I want is a quick diy solution to make it look abit more presentable. Nothing that's gonna set me back. Then a lick of paint.
 
OP,
Pilot holes for screws into the ceiling joists on either side of the repair.
Sand off the defect.
Apply a Plasterboard Repair Filler - use a steel trowel.
Light sanding.
Stain blocker then paint.
 
OP,
Pilot holes for screws into the ceiling joists on either side of the repair.
Sand off the defect.
Apply a Plasterboard Repair Filler - use a steel trowel.
Light sanding.
Stain blocker then paint.

What do you mean by pilot screws into the ceiling joists?
 
OP,
You say you have plaster laths, so if you pilot hole through the laths into the joists then you can drive screws through the pilot holes to force up the sagging area without splitting the laths.
 
Hopefully, you have fixed the cause of the leak?

Those plasterboard edges, need to be stabilised first, before a cosmetic repair is attempted. To do that, screws some screws through the board, into the ceiling joists. If the board has drooped far, due to the leak, it may need to be rewetted, and given time to soften a little, before it will pull back up to level, without breaking. Once stable, sand the area flat, and apply some suitable filler, sand flat again, then paint.
 
Thanks so much guys

How would I find the joists without removing some of the plaster ?

Also what size screws is best for this?
 
Hopefully, you have fixed the cause of the leak?

Those plasterboard edges, need to be stabilised first, before a cosmetic repair is attempted. To do that, screws some screws through the board, into the ceiling joists. If the board has drooped far, due to the leak, it may need to be rewetted, and given time to soften a little, before it will pull back up to level, without breaking. Once stable, sand the area flat, and apply some suitable filler, sand flat again, then paint.

Yes the leak has sorted. It hasn't leaked since 2024 when it got fixed.
 
Thanks so much
How would I find the joists without removing some of the plaster ?

Use one of those rare-earth magnets. Sweep it across the plasterboard, and mark where it is attracted to the hidden screw-heads or nails. Where you find them, they will form rows, where the joists are located.
Also what size screws is best for this?

That depends upon how deep it is, through the plasterboard, and maybe the original plaster above it. Try 1.5inch, and then 2inch, if too short. The heads, jus need to sink a touch below the PB surface.
 
Use one of those rare-earth magnets. Sweep it across the plasterboard, and mark where it is attracted to the hidden screw-heads or nails. Where you find them, they will form rows, where the joists are located.


That depends upon how deep it is, through the plasterboard, and maybe the original plaster above it. Try 1.5inch, and then 2inch, if too short. The heads, jus need to sink a touch below the PB surface.

Oh thanks for that! I just realised I can use my stud finder for it.
 
OP,
The slightest of sags can be easily seen in the pic - definitely no need to go wetting the ceiling , & probably causing yourself other problems.
No need for magnets or gadgets either - the present fixing heads will show if you lightly push up the sag.
Ceiling joists are centred on 400mm.
Drive your screws up & allow them to dimple the paper surface.
And then follow what I suggested in Post #6.
 

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