Leaking Compression Joint

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Lancashire
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Just fitted a new tap in my kitchen . Ive had a slight leak on one of the pipes coming from the top of the joint . Ive had it apart a few times , ptfe`d it tightened it up as tight as I can ,and ive got it down to literally 1 drip per hour - very frustrating :mad:
I really dont want to take it apart again , the access is poor , and everythings starting to look a bit battered . So I`m wondering if theres any little tricks (or bodges :eek: ) to dry up that last little leak .
I know by rights I should strip it down , and correct it properly , I`m usually very fussy about these things but its doin` my head in !!!
 
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Is the pipe damaged ?
Is the olive knackered where you have done it so tight and crushed it ?
 
Are you using a brass or copper olive? Why are you using PTFE? A light smear of jointing compound such as boss white or hawk blue (for potable water) on the pipe - after you have slipped the olive on shoud ensure a water tight joint.
 
dont trhink any of the components are badly damaged - the olive hasnt split .
I think I must have had it slightly out of square and its not sealed properly .

As its only a tiny leak , I dont want to strip it down again , as the acess is poor , and I`m damaging the nuts and pipe . Its a brass olive , btw .

Is there a compound , or joint sealer which can be applied externally , which would do the trick .
 
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Is there a compound , or joint sealer which can be applied externally , which would do the trick .

No. Re-make the joint with a Cu olive and inspect the pipe - was the old olive over-tightened? Personally, I'd re-new a small section of pipework where the olive has to seal - it must be damaged in some way. Don't bodge it - you'll gain much more satisfaction knowing you have fixed it properly.
 
Yea , I know I could re-make the joint - but I really dont want to cut the pipe down further as its getting a bit battered where the new joint would be , and if it fails , I`ll be into replacing the tail .
I`m really after a solution that doesnt involve taking the joint apart - surely there must be a few "cowboys" out there :D
 
Yee - Ha . 1 drip an hour - how many before High Noon :eek: Just put a pan under it and in a week it`ll have sealed up - Do not forsake me oh my darlin . Just come back in a week an tell me it`s worked :mrgreen:
 
Every compression fitting shouild be sealed with 'Boss White' only.
 
Yee - Ha . 1 drip an hour - how many before High Noon :eek: Just put a pan under it and in a week it`ll have sealed up - Do not forsake me oh my darlin . Just come back in a week an tell me it`s worked :mrgreen:

Yeah suree pardner !!! Seems to have slowed already - down to a rattlesnakes teardrop since sunrise . Yeee haaa :D
 
I tend to always use copper olives, although brass olives have their uses. No need for any paste on a joint. I've never needed to. For piece of mind some PTFE on the olive only goes a long way.
 
I tend to always use copper olives, although brass olives have their uses. No need for any paste on a joint. I've never needed to. For piece of mind some PTFE on the olive only goes a long way.

Nothing wrong with brass olives. CC/CCCs & DaftyDIYers use PTFE on compression fittings. Boss White(generic) should be the only thing used by Real Plumbers.
 
Every compression fitting shouild be sealed with 'Boss White' only.
even on drinking water.....

He'll come along in a moment and tell you that he's using Boss White as a generic term rather than the brand name (we've had this discussion before...), and he actually means Jet Blue or something similar as he knows Boss White isn't permitted on potable water installations.

What he seems to forget, however, is that this is a DIY advice site and DIYers will see that he's said Boss White and go to a merchants and ask for Boss White, unaware that it can't be used. Quite why he can't say jointing compound or Jet Blue is a mystery, but he seems to be quite incapable of doing so.
 

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