leaking flexible connector on bath

[Lusi83]

I have a leak on my water supply to the bath...seems like it is a flexible connector that has failed??? Is that likely?

They were put in about 6 yrs ago by a professional plumber...

Also no idea what size to get....the bath is probably the original one from 1970? (otherwise the early 80s) The connector fits to a copper pipe 15mm with a bulb expansion soldered on and a compression joint...so is it likely to be 22mm or imperial and how can I tell the difference?

Tried wrapping denso tape around the bit I thought was leaking to give me a bit of time -but it seems to have made it worse...

Here is a pic....

Untitled

• Lusi83
• 30 Sep 2010
• 3

I have to turn the water off for the whole house to take it off to take it with me ...and I don't have much time so I'll have to buy it one day and fit it the next...

 

[leakydave]

The tap end will be a ¾" connection. It looks like the other end is 15mm compression fitting. I would have thought that a 'professional' would have fitted an isolation valve.

 

[kevplumb]

It looks like the other end is 15mm compression fitting

methinks 3/4""x 15 tap connector on what should be a compression fitting no wonder its leaking

get a 3/4"" x 15 comp flexi and cut the fitting off the 15mm tube and as dave says fit an isolater

ballofix

• kevplumb
• 18 Aug 2010
• 2

 

[zanwan]

I fit one last night. Its easiest if you buy yourself one with the isolation valve already attached to it.

This will do the job for you.

Actually whilst your at it, i reckon you should do both the hot and cold tap, will save you hassle later on

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/52117/Plumbing/Flexible-Hoses/Flexible-Hose-With-Valve

 

[Lusi83]

Hi thanks for this -
Should I cut it off further down and fit a compression isolator then attach the flexible connector to that?

The cold is the same layout - it used to leak a wee bit from where it was attached to the taps - but sorted itself out (it is all gunky now!) - is this one likely to fail too? (Might be worth buying 2 of everything...)

The professionals were the guys who put the central heating in too - from tanked to combi- the increase in pressure blew all the joints of the pushfit plastic pipes that the dodgy DIYer who fitted the bathroom had put in - I had to get them to replace them with copper...

Could I use the isolators to turn the pressure down a bit? I have really high water pressure. I have taps on the pipes to the separate shower that are used to regulate it and thought I could do something similar for the shower attached to the bath and then the temp could be more easily controlled....

I do intend to get the whole bathroom ripped out and redone...there are no end of surprises with it - there is no insulation (and it is in the roof space), one of the struts for the plasterboard wall had woodworm, the toilet cistern (in the attic space) overflowed straight onto the ceiling below (now replaced with an internal overflow) ...and the old overflow pipe was cut off level to the wall outside, left in the wall and not sealed up - took me a while to realise why there was a nice damp patch with plaster coming off...

 

[Lusi83]

cross post....so I should do the cold too -or at least be ready to do it...

 

[stardanny]

The tap end will be a ¾" connection. It looks like the other end is 15mm compression fitting. I would have thought that a 'professional' would have fitted an isolation valve.

I see a 3/4" tap end and 22mm compression. There is a reducer from 15mm to 22mm on copper pipe.

All OP need is a 22mm to 3/4" flex tap connector with isolation valve.

Dan.

 

[kevplumb]

The tap end will be a ¾" connection. It looks like the other end is 15mm compression fitting. I would have thought that a 'professional' would have fitted an isolation valve.

I see a 3/4" tap end and 22mm compression. There is a reducer from 15mm to 22mm on copper pipe.

All OP need is a 22mm to 3/4" flex tap connector with isolation valve.

Dan.

should have gone to specsavers

its a piggin15x3/4 tap connector

 

[stardanny]

should have gone to specsavers

its a piggin15x3/4 tap connector

Don't think so, can you see a solder ring below compression nut? And the nut look too big to be 15mm. I can see a reducer 15mm female to 22mm male.
Like this:
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/46383...re-Solder-Ring-Reducing-Coupler-YP6-22-x-15mm

I fit copper pipes a lot and used to see like this.

Dan

 

[kevplumb]

who cares
carry on

 

[stardanny]

FYI sonny you don't get 15mm nuts you get 1/2"" and that one is3/4"" On a 15mm pipe

ie
its a 15 x 3/4"" tap connector

"i fit copper pipes a lot" pity you don't know what your fitting then

and when has a yp6 had a nut on

I am talking about the copper pipe that connect to the bottom of flex tap connector.

15mm copper pipe - yp6 reducer - 22mm compression / flex pipe / 3/4" nut - bath tap tail.

Dan.

 

[kevplumb]

you may well have a point

or failing that






alright i was freakin wrong

 

[stardanny]

alright i was freakin wrong

should have gone to specsavers.......? nah , I can read that....

 

[kevplumb]

should have had me glasses on in the first place more like
check the profile
the young yank skirt loves a geordie accent

 

[Lusi83]

The 15mm pipe does have some sort of connector soldered on to increase its width -
Why would they do that and not just fit a 15mm flexible connector? I was wondering if they had been making into an imperial size rather than 22mm....
(now I get the taps seem to be the imperial bit...how confusing...)

Second - if I fit one of these connectors with an isolator - won't I still have to turn the water supply off if I need to replace it in the future? ( I know it would have been useful to stop the leak...or change a washer)

So a separate isolator would be better - but I would have to cut a bit of the pipe out to put the isolator in and then have a short length of pipe to join onto the connector? (lots of compression joints - recipe for disaster?)
Help....