Leaking Radiator

[CJL1]

OK. I am by no means an expert or even an amateur at this, but I always like to try and attempt a repair if it is in my realms of capabilities.

We are having an issue with one of our radiators leaking, except it doesn't seem to be in the usual place.
At the top, there are to ends. One is the air release vent thingie (told you I wasn't knowledgeable ), and the other side there is a bolt.
The leak is coming from the bolt, dripping on to the bottom section of the radiator and on to the floor.
The bottom of the radiator where it is leaking is now starting to rust, or at least show signs of rust starting.
I have in the past tightened the bolt, which seemed to have worked, but now is becoming less efficient (and currently still very slowly leaking).

The radiator is nearly 8 years old the same age as the house.

We have had issues with one or two other radiators but these seem to be currently fixed.

I will try and post a picture later is I work out how.

Is there a simple remedy to this problem, or is calling out an expert a better idea?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Murf520970]

with the radiator cold turn the valves of each side of the radiator , then crack the nut that joins one of the valves to the radiator & drain the water slowly into a tray . Opening the air vent will speed up the water coming out a bit . You can either drain the whole radiator or just enough to leave some space at the top of the radiator without water in to enable you to remove the 1/2 inch plug in the radiator . You can either get another one from plumbcentre & replace it or wrap ptfe tape around the threads of the old one & screw it back in . Wrap it about 10 times in the direction it will be turning

 

[DavyS]

with the radiator cold turn the valves of each side of the radiator , then crack the nut that joins one of the valves to the radiator & drain the water slowly into a tray .

Could you not just, after closing the rad valves each end, unscrew the blanking plug? A little water will flow out but can be easily caught with a container under the rad. Has advantages that dont have to disturb the valve joint. Or is there a clear advantage of cracking open the valve joint?

 

[Armo74]

There is no reason why you can't do as you say but I find it much safer and cleaner to crack the nut on the valve,the water is a lot easier to catch that way.

 

[Murf520970]

with the radiator cold turn the valves of each side of the radiator , then crack the nut that joins one of the valves to the radiator & drain the water slowly into a tray .

Could you not just, after closing the rad valves each end, unscrew the blanking plug? A little water will flow out but can be easily caught with a container under the rad. Has advantages that dont have to disturb the valve joint. Or is there a clear advantage of cracking open the valve joint?

try doing that with the system hot as it will shoot the dreaded black stuff up ur walls & carpet

 

[CJL1]

Sorry for the delay guys. Eventually got around to doing this.

On the rediator, I figured there was only one valve as the other end had a temperature control on it.
Either way, I think I drained the system
Still, when I took the plug out, no water came out, so at least did the trick.

Ptfe wrapped around the thread and put back in. System refilled and hopefully all ok.

However, I have a question about the valve.
The top looked like this:

http://i910.photobucket.com/albums/ac308/dimpalz1/p1020668.jpg

The taller bit I turned clockwise, but it ended up snapping off. Do I need to turn it back anti clockwise at all?
I'm guessing the cog directly underneath (where the arrow is pointing too) doesn't need turning fully clockwise, or does it? Its currently more clockwise than it was.
Everything else back to where it was.

 

[Madrab]

Erm I'm afraid so, that is what's called the lockshield valve and will stop water flowing into/out of the radiator so needs to be opened. If the spindle has snapped off flush to the nut then only way to do it is to replace the valve.

 

[CJL1]

Tightened clockwise or anticlockwise?

 

[sooey]

Not being funny mate but some people should just bite the bullet and get someone in to do jobs.
You've closed the valve and snapped it so the radiator will never warm up now, until the valve is changed.

 

[CJL1]

Whilst I agree if its not going to work, but only trying to establish is, if the valve is clockwise, is that open or closed?
I'm asking because if I have closed the valve, why did it drain the whole system?
Sometimes, when times are hard, you do try and fix things yourself. If it goes wrong, or its not in your remit, then we get someone in who knows (I.e only this week we got a gear stick oil change done as we were completely lost).
In all fairness on that basis, so far, the only thing I have done wrong is snap the top bit (not much pressure applied so happy to say ****e quality by the builders). So I wouldn't say I have attempted something I'm not capable of (with the guidance given), I've just been unlucky in my work.
If I can't get an answer then there is a simple test. Put the heating on.

Thanks anyway.

 

[sooey]

It drained the whole system because you left the TRV at the other end open, despite being told to close both valves.
Now you've definitely shut it, snapped it and need a new one.

 

[sooey]

One thing you could try to get the rad working is to remove the nut that goes over the valve and see if you can get a grip on the snapped off shank to loosen it a bit. A turn or so would do it then put the nut back on.

 

[CJL1]

Thanks. Sorry to sound harsh, but prefer constructive feedback to negative.

Before I have a go at your suggestion, I have gone back downstairs to have a look.
Considering that no water was coming out when I took the plug out, an have since filled the system back up, if water is coming out when I open the valve nut (its a little piece of pipe coming out of the side of the whole valve) can I presume that water is still feeding into the radiator?

 

[sooey]

No

 

[CJL1]

Ok. Have turned the top bit a few times round and also the bolt (anticlockwise).
I guess leave and try again later to check its heating all over?
If not, turn again?

To be fair, it's actually easy to turn the top bit with some pliers.