Or or even a neon.
Led Mirror with always on Demister pad
- Thread starter Sys33
- Start date
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http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/220-240vac-blue-snap-in-neon-indicator-lamp-n92bn
Would something like this be appropriate?
Am I right in assuming I would connect it by taking the Live from my pull switch and Neutral from the original feed and it would turn on along with the Demister?
Thanks
Would something like this be appropriate?
Am I right in assuming I would connect it by taking the Live from my pull switch and Neutral from the original feed and it would turn on along with the Demister?
Thanks
Yes, if it would fit. That neon is around 50mm long (32mm plus length of terminals and terminal separator), Would you be able to find a way to fit it in?
Indeed. You would obviously have to connect the neon to the 'demister side' of the pull switch.
Kind Regards, John
Thanks John, this is reassuring to know.
I think the length will be ok but I will double measure up before ordering any parts.
So from the original idea of just shutting the whole mirror down thanks to this forum I will now be able to control the Demister and have a light indicator too while still not affecting the Led lights
Thanks
I think the length will be ok but I will double measure up before ordering any parts.
So from the original idea of just shutting the whole mirror down thanks to this forum I will now be able to control the Demister and have a light indicator too while still not affecting the Led lights
Thanks
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One of these (http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/8mm-panel-mount-red-with-plastic-bezel-led-n00bb) may be more appropriate, and shorter.
It could be installed across the 12 V DC SUPPLY to the "Touch Pad".
Since it mounts through a hole using a washer and locking nut, it may be easier to mount than the Neon mentionel
It could be installed across the 12 V DC SUPPLY to the "Touch Pad".
Since it mounts through a hole using a washer and locking nut, it may be easier to mount than the Neon mentionel
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The feed to the LED lights is 12V from the SMPSU, but it looks as if the demister appears to be fed with mains voltage (hence suitable for a neon) - unless I'm misunderstanding/misinterpreting.
Kind Regards, John
No!
The indicator needs to be 230VOLTS. Same as the heat pad.
If the OP did that, the indicator LED would always be lit, which would not be helpful. If he connected the LED to the feed from the touch pad to the mirror's LED lights, then it would only be lit when those mirror lights were on - which would be of no use/value.
What the OP wants is an indicator which is lit when the demister is on and, since that appears to be supplied with 230V AC, a neon (on the output of the pull switch he intends to install) would be the appropriate course.
Kind Regards, John
Edit: slightly too slow, yet again!
Why not put the switch in the incoming "feed" to both the demister and the 12 V DC supply (via the "touch pad") to the LEDs.?
The switch would then isolate both the demister and the LEDs.
I am surprised that it is not a (UK) requirement that this demister/LED combination be fitted with an "isolation switch" and is allowed to be permanently powered.
Also, if is possible to mount a "Pull Switch" (presumably, on the side of the cabinet), would it not be just as easy to mount an "Architrave Switch" (http://www.acornengineer.co.uk/pdl-single-architrave-changeover-switch-beige), which may render any indicator lamp unnecessary.
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You cannot do that. The 12v supply provides power for the clock as well as the leds and the touch pad. So must be permanently powered.
OK.
I missed the point concerning the clock.
"The white box is for the clock and led lighting touch control."
Hence the clock must be 12 V DC (or lower) powered and is probably "crystal controlled" for accuracy.
However, Sys33 also wrote "I suspect the clock has a battery backup as when I turned the electrics off for about 15 mins the time was still correct once back on."
If the "back-up battery" for the clock can last for days, or longer, and is rechargeable, a switch to disconnect Demister, LEDs and Clock may still be viable.
Apart from that, an "architrave switch" in lieu of a "pull switch" for disconnecting the 230 V AC Demister circuit may still be an option.
I would worry about the suitability of that type of switch in a bathroom. You know, wet hands, etc.
I'd recommend the DIYer goes the pull switch option.
Sorry to put you down, but quite a lot of people take what are called holidays, these can last one or two weeks. He'd have to reset the clock after every extended absence.
Switches like that (New Zealsnd made) switch are used in bathrooms and elsewhere throughout Australia and New Zealand and they are just as safe as (say) http://www.homebase.co.uk/en/homebaseuk/mk-13a-1-gang-1-way-10ax-light-switch-383710.
It is a requirement in Australia/NZ that the mounting screws be recessed (or covered) so that a finger cannot come in contact with them.
http://agmelectrical.com.au/electri...ng-architrave-switch-white-clipsal-c2030.html are now in more general use - with covers, and the screws are recessed underneath those covers.
Not necessarily. If it keeps time for more than one day it is likely that it would keep time for much longer.
Battery driven alarm clocks keep time for months and my watch has a battery which is supposed to last 10 years.
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