I have recently installed cctv at my house but I need some artificial light on a night to enhance the footage. Im have fitted a 15w LED pir floodlight on my garage, 2.5mm2 twe from a socket to a switched fused spur, to the floodlight, but I also need to fit one on the front of my house. The light would be 30w/50w LED on the front peak above the window so lighting cable coming in through loft space, can I connect to the existing upstairs lighting circuit and if so what would be best way? Cable size, fused spur etc.
Led pir floodlight
- Thread starter darren6645
- Start date
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Probably the simplest way is to mount a 13A (fused at 5 Amp) switched spur beside the nearest socket outlet in the house. And cable (1.5mm² Twin and earth) from there to the light, locate the light so that the internal cable is hidden behind curtains, and the hole though the wall is hidden by the light.
I had thought of that but the light is required at loft height to give the correct coverage outside and the two front bedrooms already have spurs off them, so I was hoping to connect in the loft to existing lighting circuit.
Thanks for the reply.
Thanks for the reply.
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You would need to connect the earth regardless of whether the light fitting requires it
No junction boxes unfortunately. So I can find a rose that has only three cables connected in,out and switch or last one on circuit in and switch, drop same cable through ceiling connect to rose,feed from there to fused spur,then 1.5mm2 to my light? Is that correct?
Thanks again.
Don’t need a fused spur from the lighting circuit unless you want to be able to turn the outside light off.
I would use 1mm² from the rose to a waterproof JB outside then connect the flex from the floodlight to the JB, or better still do the join inside, and take the floodlight flex into the loft and join it in there - can’t get wet then!
This is of course, assuming your floodlight is pre-flexed, as many are. If it’s not, get yourself a few metres of black 1mm² black flex and take that to the fitting from the pendant - T&E is not suitable for outside use.
I would use 1mm² from the rose to a waterproof JB outside then connect the flex from the floodlight to the JB, or better still do the join inside, and take the floodlight flex into the loft and join it in there - can’t get wet then!
This is of course, assuming your floodlight is pre-flexed, as many are. If it’s not, get yourself a few metres of black 1mm² black flex and take that to the fitting from the pendant - T&E is not suitable for outside use.
Excellent, thank you all for your help.
Excellent, thank you all for your help.
It is sensible to fit a double pole switch to enable the outside lamp to be isolated ( both Live and Neutral ). If the outside lamp cannot be isolated then in the event of a fault in the lamp that trips the RCD the internal lights will not have power.
Indeed so, particularly given that outside lights (and other outdoor electrical things) are prone to tripping RCDs because of water ingress.
However, electrical things indoors are not immune from developing faults which trip RCDs, so it probably makes sense to generalise your advice to any hard-wired electrical things, all of which would benefit from being fed through a double-pole switch.
Kind Regards, John
Got home last night, had a look at my options and my son's bedroom has a socket on the internal wall that backs on to a cupboard. Spur off that to switched fused spare with cable exit, inside cupboard,1.5mm2 tacked up architrave into loft and across to light, bit extra cable required but seems easiest, safest way.
Cheers everyone!
Cheers everyone!
You don't need 1.5mm cable. 1.0mm is perfectly OK, cheaper, less conspiculous, and easier to work with.
Even better, cheers.
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