Lifted laminate floor and the subfloor is sodden!!!!

@WoodYouLike

I have my suspicions over these tiles anyway.

What is there purpose of being down in the first place?

Could previous owners have known the DPM had failed and they laid down a covering of these bitumen/vinyl tiles as a DPM layer?

Some of the tiles were broken/missing before i laid the laminate so this obviously would have caused a weakness in that DPM method (if thats what it was used as)

I come along and bang laminate down, stops the bloor from breathing, and moisture seepng through these tiles is the moisture i have, an spread accross the floor trying to find a way out.

Floor is dry around the skirting boards - presumably as air gets underneath the skirts so that part of the floor "breathes", hence the dry.


PS - i have not lifted everything yet, i partially relaid the floor that i ripped up so the floor remained "wet" for when the damp company come to investigate.
 
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I have done the surface dpm method on a few jobs and on a house I rent out. Had no issues yet. It will suppress moisture but if high moisture is coming through I wouldnt risk it.
 
Ok.

Damp cpmpany came around this afternoon.

He said (ill try to remember and get it right)

I have a DPC for the brickwork walls.

I dont have a DPM under the concrete slab in the main house (the kitchen extension will have as it was mandatory when it was retro built)

My DPM was these tiles that were bitumnned/black jacked to the floor.

These tiles have failed as some are missing/ some broken/ the bitumen broken down, meaning the DPM has failed, hence allowing the water through.
He also saw hairline cracks in the top layer of screed in places.

Then the lamiante has trapped this water in creating the sweat affect

Garden is not at fault - digging a soakaway will help very little as the earth under the house carries moisture regardless.

He suggested:

Lifting the laminate/underlay and scrape the tiles up

Leave for a week or 2 to dry out, aided with dehumidifiers.

Then layer 1 coat 3m of arditex NA over the bitumen as that stuff will bond with the bitumen.

Then layer 1 coat of ardex DPM 1C

Then layer another 3m coat of arditex NA

Then my problems will be gone.


So most of it is what we already knew, but he just confirmed it.

Is this Ardex stuff the stuff to use in your guys opionion? I see alot of reference to F-Ball?

Also he said the polyeurethane resin i have access too will do just a good as a job laid on top of an epxoy resin.
I forgot to ask though if this epoxy resin stuff can be painted straight over the bitumen??
 
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WoodYouLike said:
We've seen cases where sweating of tiles, during a period of high air humidity caused such an effect.
Before you tell someone to dig out the whole floor I would suggest he takes a more cautious approach


Really , you have actually seen tiles bonded to subfloor with a bitumen adhesive and a working Dpm 'sweat' and have actual water left behind ? Any pics ?


O and I didn't "tell" anyone they have to dig up the floor. I advised correct method and also explained about applying a surface Dpm method.
 

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