Light switch for shower.

[RobinClay]

We've had a combi-boiler fitted, so don't need the hot-water tank. That's gone, as has the airing cupboard it was in (in the bathroom). I'm now going to install a shower in place of the airing cupboard, and inside the shower I want to install some GU10 ceiling lights - I have proper Zone-safe ones.

Floor to ceiling height is 2250 mm.

I have re-wired the main light off a fused spur (on the ring main), that also carries a wall-mounted fan-heater that operates off the same heavy-duty ceiling pull-switch (with its own in series).

So from that switch (via a JB of course) I have taken another lead to another JB to feed the GU10 lights over the shower.

But "it would be nice" to have those also operated by their own switch in series. I propose to use the old light-duty ceiling pull-switch. I guess I'm not allowed to mount this actually inside the shower enclosure ?

If that's the case, then can I mount it over the adjacent bath ?

And if not there, how close may it be to the shower enclosure ?

Another alternative is to mount it on a rafter in the loft, with just the string coming through the ceiling, in which case I guess I can put that string anywhere I like, even inside the enclosure ?

But it I do THAT, I need some kind of plate on the ceiling with a hole in it to prevent the string from wearing away the plasterbaord ! And I haven't seen ANYTHING like that on the shelves !

I would replace the string with a basin-waste chain, I think

 

[Taylortwocities]

A hole through the ceiling is a cr@p idea!
Why not have a switch on the wall outside the enclosure?

 

[securespark]

Assuming it is outside the zones and suitable for the environment.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

inside the shower I want to install some GU10 ceiling lights

Lights plural?

It's a small space - doesn't the fact that you think you need more than 1 light in it tell you that you've chosen lights which are carp at actually doing the job of lighting up the enclosure?

Also - I hope you have decent access above the space in the loft, as you must build or install enclosures over the lights which are sealed to the ceiling, provide the clearances required for the lights and are strong enough to support the loft insulation going over them (you might need to get more insulation to allow for the longer path up and over). If you don't have the enclosures you'll be contravening the Building Regulations and risking structural damage to your roof timbers from condensation.

• http://www.nhbc.co.uk/NHBCPublicati...ical/StandardsExtra/filedownload,16553,en.pdf
  
  
• Pre-formed cap to seal downlights: http://www.aico.co.uk/downlights-in-loft-space-what-to-fit.html (It's NOT a firehood....)
  
  
• IET article on installing downlighters safely

I have proper Zone-safe ones

Re the above, remember that the IP rating only applies to the access to the electrical components. As a (ridiculously) extreme example to illustrate the point, I could make and sell¹ a light like this:

which requires a 1m diameter hole to be cut in the ceiling. It would be IP65, but it would still create a path through the ceiling for warm moist air to get into the loft.

¹ "offer for sale" would be more accurate - I doubt I would actually sell any...

So from that switch (via a JB of course)

Why "of course"?

Does the JB comply with the requirements to be either maintenance free or accessible?

I have taken another lead to another JB

Why another JB?

I guess I'm not allowed to mount this actually inside the shower enclosure ?

You guess right.

If that's the case, then can I mount it over the adjacent bath ?

No.

And if not there, how close may it be to the shower enclosure ?

//www.diynot.com/wiki/Electrics:bathroom_zones

Another alternative is to mount it on a rafter in the loft, with just the string coming through the ceiling, in which case I guess I can put that string anywhere I like, even inside the enclosure ?

You could.

But it I do THAT, I need some kind of plate on the ceiling with a hole in it to prevent the string from wearing away the plasterbaord ! And I haven't seen ANYTHING like that on the shelves !

You're right - you haven't.

And even if you make one from say, a blanking plate and a small metal bush or grommet, it will be very tricky to get it lined up so that the string drops through the centre of the hole and doesn't rub.

I would replace the string with a basin-waste chain, I think

That would stop it wearing away.

But why not put a concealed proximity switch behind one of the tiles?

Or use a flow switch in one of the water pipes - turn the shower on and on comes the light? If you use ELV lighting you could power it from a fan supply with a timed overrun so that it stays on for a while after you turn the shower off.

Or if you put a temperature switch around the hot feed pipe that will naturally give you a delay (but also a delay in coming on, which might be an issue).

 

[ban-all-sheds]

A hole through the ceiling is a cr@p idea!

Not as cr@p a one as having a round switch on the ceiling when every other accessory in the bathroom is rectangular.

I've done it, for just that reason.

I am not forced to have round sockets.

I am not forced to have round wall switches.

I am not forced to have round FCUs.

I am not forced to have round flex outlet plates.

I am not forced to have round ceiling shower switches.

I want to punch all the makers who think I have to have round lighting pull switches because that's what people have always had, in the throat.

[EDIT]Punctuation added to make the meaning of the last sentence clearer[/EDIT]

 

[securespark]

Ban

You have a short memory...

//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=209337

 

[EFLImpudence]

It would be more difficult to fit a square switch in the throat.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

You have a short memory...

You're right - I had forgotten these:

Ashley 10A Switches

• gladtobegrey
• 29 Mar 2012
• 2

Showing the result of polishing off the markings with Cerium Oxide polishing powder.

And that another way (probably the easiest) to get a square ceiling switch for your lights is one of these mounted on a blanking plate.

 

[RobinClay]

Thank you for your comprehensive reply. Very useful.

Lights plural?

It's a small space -

1400 x 900, in the far corner of the bathroom. They are 3.5 W LED bulbs. The lights are "waterproof", i.e. the frame is covered in glass, and sealed with a rubber washer against the ceiling.

I hope you have decent access above the space in the loft

Yup.

as you must build or install enclosures

Yup.

Thanks for the URLs

So from that switch (via a JB of course)

Why "of course"?

Cos there just ain't room enough in the switch for all the feeds - fan-neater, bathroom light, shower lights, extractor fan and shaver socket.

Does the JB comply

Yup

Why another JB?

For the shower lights, and a separate switch for them.

And even if you make one from say, a blanking plate and a small metal bush or grommet,

... as I did in our last house. It lasted over fifteen years.

it will be very tricky to get it lined up so that the string drops through the centre of the hole and doesn't rub.

It's not that crucial / difficult

But why not put a concealed proximity switch behind one of the tiles?
Or use a flow switch

TFD The two walls are lath & plaster (studs & noggins). The electrics are in the loft; while the plumbing is all done inside the room.

 

[RobinClay]

A hole through the ceiling is a cr@p idea!

... in your opinion. Personally. I like 'em.

Why not have a switch on the wall outside the enclosure?

because ...you walk into the bathroom, and the shower is behind the door. It's 1400, the sliding door is 700, and the fixed panel is against the wall next to the bathroom door, so it would be inconvenient to use. And that wall is lath-&-plaster, so difficult to chase (and ugly un-chased).

See //www.diynot.com/diy/threads/shower-enclosure-at-the-end-of-the-bath.420457/

 

[RobinClay]

I am not forced to have round sockets.
I am not forced to have round wall switches.
I am not forced to have round FCUs.
I am not forced to have round flex outlet plates.
I am not forced to have round ceiling shower switches.

On the other hand...
You ARE forced to have rectangular
sockets.
wall switches.
FCUs.
flex outlet plates.

Having recently done a fair few, square is a real pain to drill out of brickwork - MUCH easier to just core-drill a round hole (which I do first anyway) - but then you have to **** around squaring it off.

WHY do they not make a standard ROUND fixings (and metal boxes for them) ???

Yes, I know; conduit boxes are round - but not QUITE the same thing !

 

[RobinClay]

And that another way (probably the easiest) to get a square ceiling switch for your lights is one of these mounted on a blanking plate.

That's what I used last time.