Replace wall switches in bathroom cupboard?

[TCDIY]

I am refurbishing a bathroom retiling, replacing lights etc. and have cut a hatch to gain access to a flat cold roof, more on this later.

In the bathroom is an airing cupboard one wall of which (studded plasterboard) backs on to the bath. On this wall, mounted above the bath, is an instantaneous shower (Triton T50i which for the moment without checking is 6.5/7.0KW). The isolator switch for the shower is fixed on the wall inside the airing cupboard back to back with the shower, it is DP and just in zone 3 (if zones apply to inside cupboard - taking into account width of partition & depth inside cupboard). Wiring 6mm direct to CU (RCD).

Also in the cupboard is a switch for an immersion heater. DP wall mounted in zone 2; wiring 2.5 direct to CU (RCD). Flex from switch to heater is not heat resistant.

Funds are tight and I don’t want to replace either shower or immersion heater until they break. I understand Part P with regards to works inside bathroom. Questions are to comply with regs: -

1) Do the switches have to be replaced immediately?

Or
2) Can they be left until the shower/immersion heater need replacement?

3) Do both need to be pull switches and can they be inside the cupboard (could be in zone 3) (if applicable inside cupboard)?

The reason for asking this last question takes me back to the hatch. If replacing the switches can be left and they cannot be in the cupboard can I “prepare for the future”? The hatch is situated between the airing cupboard and the only sensible area to place a new pull switch – next to the existing light pull – but crossing two joists. I don’t want to make good the ceiling only to have it pulled down again in the (near) future. Am I allowed to run the cable (say 10mm allowing for up-rating) across the ceiling leaving tails for later connection or cut holes in the joists and leave a pull wire? (is it possible to pull 10mm?)

 

[Dippy]

If this is a structural airing cupboard then water can't get in can it? It should be unzoned or at least considered zone 3.

Others may disagree?

 

[TCDIY]

Thanks. Yes it is structural in that it was built with the house studded -walled, plaster board and plastered over. It currently has (original) louvred door which I am about to ply over (to hide lovures) since they are a dust trap.

Zone 3 therefore a spanky( sparky even!!) could run any new cable(s) up the inside cupboard wall (in trucking) to a pull switch inside cupboard? (has to be inside otherwise door wouldn't open. If cannot be in cupboard has to then run though ceiling void!)

 

[TCDIY]

Have replaced ceiling, but still interested in any thoughts about switches

 

[mikeyd]

As Dippy says, airing cupboards are not zoned as part of the bathroom so you can have switches inside. I have a fused connection unit and underfloor heating controller on the wall inside my cupboard (altough mine isn't strictly an airing cupboard as there are no tanks / pipes in there).

If you are getting rid of the door louvres and it's all RCD protected then I don't see why you should worry about moving it until you have to.

Then when you have to run a new cable in anyway because your new shower will no doubt need a 10mm, yes you can run the cable inside the cupboard and put a ceiling switch in the bathroom or the cupboard. (Personally I would want the switch where everyone can see it, not potentially behind a pile of towels in the cupboard where it will be always left on and forgotten about but that's just me)

I hope you mean the shower is connected to an RCD by the way, or an MCB protected by an RCD.

 

[TCDIY]

Thanks, great help - know what you mean about having light inside cupboard - it would be better to have some indication outside - can you get remote indicators - would a sparky fit one I wonder (when the time comes)?

Yes I should have said RCD - just checking to see if you were awake

 

[mikeyd]

No problem.

I wasn't really thinking just about visual indication that it was turned on. More like that after a few years when the shower gets old, if it suddenly starts spluttering, goes really hot and makes strange noises, all the person in the shower might want to do is get out the bath and turn the electric to the shower off without getting to close. Best if they know where to quickly do that.

Your RCD should save the day in terms of them getting a bad shock but imagine say a blocked pipe and a faulty overheat cutout. The isolator switch could stop that overheating shower turning into a smelly melted blob of plastic on the wall.

Even an isolator on the wall outside the bathroom door which you can't fail to see might be a better option than one in a cupboard.

(Again all just my opinion)

 

[TCDIY]

See what you mean Mike thanks, boss says no way to the landing, and she's always right! Can see me knocking the ceiling down again when the time comes - the way my lucks going reckon that'll be about the end of the month just after I've finished decorating !! Watch this space!

 

[TCDIY]

Don't panic the shower is still working! Had a idea whilst sitting and thinking on the throne last night.

Given that I am going to over clad the airing cupboard door with ply I could also cut it down in height. This to give room for the door to open and clear any pull switch mounted near it in the future. Switch would be near hinge, in zone 3, wirable from inside cupboard though void but only 100mm max across ceiling. Ok cord might slightly catch when door fully opened - but they do with lots of bathroom doors any way.

Can someone please tell me - how deep are pull switchws - tried searching net no luck - then I can get on can mod door, frame etc and finnlly get on wirh decorating - and learning to type Thanks