Light Swtich

[Kev Brown]

Hi,

I'm looking to replace the light switch and sockets in my kitchen, modernising them basically. Not a hard job at all however when I turn the lights on they trip the fuse box. On examination I noticed that the new switch states 10ax, where as the old one was 5ax. This is clearly the problem but what i can do about it as I can't seem to see 5ax switches online to buy.

Thanks

Kev

 

[bernardgreen]

new switch states 10ax, where as the old one was 5ax. This is clearly the problem

Sorry but that is NOT the problem.

Old switches can control up to 5 amps. ( 1200 watts of lighting ) new ones can switch 10 amps ( 2400 watts of lghting ) The wattage is determined by the lights and not the switches.

99.9% certain you did not connect the new switches correctly or you have trapped and damaged a wire between when screwing the face plate back on.

 

[Kev Brown]

Thanks for your reply and yes I've just found that it's not the problem. I've put the old switch bad on and it's still tripping. if I put just that switch on it's fine and works, if I put the rest of the lights on in the house they trip.

 

[Himaginn]

Thanks for your reply and yes I've just found that it's not the problem. I've put the old switch bad on and it's still tripping. if I put just that switch on it's fine and works, if I put the rest of the lights on in the house they trip.

Did all of the lights trip the breaker before you changed the switch?

Check each light individually, i.e. with no other lights on, to see if the breaker trips. If the breaker is not tripped by any individual light I would think that it's the whole circuit that is overloaded and you need a sparky to sort it out.

If any individual light trips the breaker, try changing the bulb, even try switching the light on without a bulb in, otherwise you need a sparky to sort it out. Obviously take usual precautions before changing the bulb.

 

[JohnD]

When you say "trip the fuse box" you mean "trip one (or more) of the devices"

What is printed on the thing that trips? Does it for example say "B06" or does it say "30mA" and have a T or Test button on it?

Have you changed any of the light fittings, or just the switches? Are you using metal switches?

 

[Kev Brown]

Yes I'm changing to Crome switches. It would appear the problem is with an old switch. In the kitchen, along with this switch I've changed, there is another switch for the lights, with 3 switches on it. 1 for the kitchen, 1 for the conservatory and the other doesn't appear to do anything. It seems to be this switch that is the problem and I'm guessing the wiring is damaged. When I remove the screws so the switch comes away from the wall they lights are fine.

 

[Taylortwocities]

What is printed on the thing that trips? Does it for example say "B06" or does it say "30mA" and have a T or Test button on it?

 

[Kev Brown]

it states, B6

 

[JohnD]

You have made an incorrect connection.

Please post a photo of the connections on the back of the switch and inside the back box on the wall.

Also:

Have you changed any of the light fittings, or just the switches?

 

[Kev Brown]

No I haven't changed any of the fittings. I have an electrician coming in next week for my new kitchen to be fitted so I'll get him to look. Thanks for your help

 

[Mikefromlondon]

Yes I'm changing to Crome switches. It would appear the problem is with an old switch. In the kitchen, along with this switch I've changed, there is another switch for the lights, with 3 switches on it. 1 for the kitchen, 1 for the conservatory and the other doesn't appear to do anything. It seems to be this switch that is the problem and I'm guessing the wiring is damaged. When I remove the screws so the switch comes away from the wall they lights are fine.

From what you have stated, that it is the switch with 3 banks of switches which trips your power, one switch does your kitchen light, the 2nd does your Conservatory light and the 3rd switch you don't know what it does, (my guess would be that it may have been wired for an outside garden light) so you think this is the culprit switch since when you unscrew it away from the wall box, and leave it dangling it then does not trip, but when you refit it back into position, it then trips, so it is likely that when you are refitting it back the wires are getting crushed behind and catching on some earthed part or even shorting out under cramped conditions inside the box, so it seems clear to me that when you screw the front plate back on its box, the wires are getting crushed and touching something, so examine properly every wire make sure there is no bare wires including earth wires that should be sleeved, and when you refit that there is no possibility of wires getting crushed over each other or any bare parts of the live wires able to touch any other bare surfaces, apart from this there is also a possibility that where the live conductors (usually red or brown) may have broken insulation which comes into contact with neutral or earthed parts and causing the MCB to trip.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

If the light/switch works when the face plate is not screwed back to backbox, you have most likely trap a conductor and damaged the insulation of it. When you tighten back up the live conductor is producing a fault to earth. Or you have an over exposed conductor that is making contact to earth when you fit the plate back.

 

[stillp]

Or it could be that the switch is broken. I had one like that once.