Lighting Replace Two Way Light Switch and Pull Cord Switch

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Hi,
Present situation is as follows in Bedroom:

2 Way Wall Light Switch ( 2 1.5 flat cables )
1 Cable Red to Com, Black not attached to anything.
1 Cable Red to L1, Black to L2.

Pull Cord Switch
2 Cables
Black to Com.
Red and a Black to separate OUT.
Spare Red Unattached.

Ceiling Rose
3 cables
2 black to Neutral with blue to light fitting.
2 Red to Loop
1 Black to Live with brown to light fitting

Need to replace wall switch with one way switch, remove pull cord switch replace ceiling rose with 4 terminal junction box to connect 4 downlighters to. :confused:
 
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Firstly does your wiring have an earth present?
Possibly your new fittings will require one.

AT THE WALL SWITCH
Connect the red wire to common as before.
Put the unused black in a connector block.

Connect the remaining red to L1.
Connect the remaining black in another separate connector block.


AT THE PULL SWITCH
Get a 6 terminal 20 amp junction box.
Connect the black from com terminal of the pull switch to the red. Mark this black wire with a red sleeve/tape.
Connect the unused red on its own in a terminal.
Connect the remaining black on its own in a terminal.

CEILING ROSE
Get a 6 terminal 20 amp junction box.
Wire as the ceiling rose was.
Sleeve the black wire which goes to switch live (joined to the brown flex wire) with red sleeving/tape.
Run a cable from here to the new lights.
The L of the new cable will replace the brown flex wire.
The N of the new cable will replace the blue flex wire.

Make sure to connect all earths together and sleeve with green and yellow.
 
Firstly does your wiring have an earth present?
Possibly your new fittings will require one.

AT THE WALL SWITCH
Connect the red wire to common as before.
Put the unused black in a connector block.

Connect the remaining red to L1.
Connect the remaining black in another separate connector block.


AT THE PULL SWITCH
Get a 6 terminal 20 amp junction box.
Connect the black from com terminal of the pull switch to the red. Mark this black wire with a red sleeve/tape.
Connect the unused red on its own in a terminal.
Connect the remaining black on its own in a terminal.

CEILING ROSE
Get a 6 terminal 20 amp junction box.
Wire as the ceiling rose was.
Sleeve the black wire which goes to switch live (joined to the brown flex wire) with red sleeving/tape.
Run a cable from here to the new lights.
The L of the new cable will replace the brown flex wire.
The N of the new cable will replace the blue flex wire.

Make sure to connect all earths together and sleeve with green and yellow.
 
Yes 4 terminal is fine.

If you have earth present at the first junction box you will have to use a connector block inside.
 
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OK, Earth cables present at Wall Switch, Pull Switch and Ceiling Rose will do as recommended for Earth Contiunity Circuit. The downlighters are double insulated and do not require an earth. Therefore presume no need to continue earth via Junction box to lights or would it be better to connect to JB and terminate in a terminal block incase future downlighter is not double insulated.

Hope thus makes sence and thanks again for your help. :D
 
please note...

any connections made at the site of the redundant pull cord will need to be accessible if they are screwed connections ( ie terminal block ).
so that means using a blank plate and a box to hide the connections in..
alternatively the use or crimp connectors negates the need for accessibility allowing you to plaster over the switch location..
the use of a suitable ratchet crimp tool is needed, NOT one of the cheap ones that you can get from auto part stores.. they are not suitable for making mains crimps off..
 
The latter.
Maintain earth continuity throughout, connector block at the end at the double insulated lights.
 
please note...

any connections made at the site of the redundant pull cord will need to be accessible if they are screwed connections ( ie terminal block ).
so that means using a blank plate and a box to hide the connections in..
alternatively the use or crimp connectors negates the need for accessibility allowing you to plaster over the switch location..
the use of a suitable ratchet crimp tool is needed, NOT one of the cheap ones that you can get from auto part stores.. they are not suitable for making mains crimps off..

If of course you have a loft-space, that would be accessible btw.
 
true, but if he has an accessible loft then re-routing the black wire from the pullcord to the wall switch would be a better idea ( assuming that it was in capping and that the 2 core would pull out.. )
 
please note...

any connections made at the site of the redundant pull cord will need to be accessible if they are screwed connections ( ie terminal block ).
so that means using a blank plate and a box to hide the connections in..
alternatively the use or crimp connectors negates the need for accessibility allowing you to plaster over the switch location..
the use of a suitable ratchet crimp tool is needed, NOT one of the cheap ones that you can get from auto part stores.. they are not suitable for making mains crimps off..

Pull Cord Switch will be replaced by a Junction Box accessable from loft space. Hole through ceiling plastered over. Unsure what you mean about need to crimb connections as they will be connected using individual terminal within JB.

Many Thanks, am I missing something here !
 
true, but if he has an accessible loft then re-routing the black wire from the pullcord to the wall switch would be a better idea ( assuming that it was in capping and that the 2 core would pull out.. )

Yes accessible loft .
2 cables @ Wall Switch are in plastic channelling which has been plaster ed over. Feel would damage plaster if removed cable ?
 
the crimping is one option to permanently join the required wires..
in a JB the screws can work loose over time so they need to be checked on occasion when testing the installation..
 
The latter.
Maintain earth continuity throughout, connector block at the end at the double insulated lights.

Does it matter which method I use to connect lights.
There is no Earth connector on lights so the earth cable would need to be terminated in a insulated terminal box.

PS I am learning more more with every feedback which is great . :)
 
the crimping is one option to permanently join the required wires..
in a JB the screws can work loose over time so they need to be checked on occasion when testing the installation..

OK, now understand Thanks
 

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