lighting

[majormacmason]

Is it possible and safe to create a switched lighting circuit from a ring circuit? At the moment I run a series of lights connected through lighting sockets on a ring powered by a normal plug in a wall socket. However I want to control the lights from a wall switch. I cannot access the junction boxes for the lighting circuit without pulling up carpets etc, so was wondering whether I could simply cut a cable (which is conveniently located behind wall switch location) on the ring circuit and reconnect through a new junction box, and run cables for the lights and the switch off that? Thanks

 

[ELZ4742]

as long as the lights are fused down. a 3a switched fuse spur taken off the ring would be ideal.

 

[majormacmason]

At the moment the lights are on 2 amp round 3 pin plugs that use 2amp round 3 pin sockets that are powered from a switched socket. Would it be possible/ safe/ legal to hide the new fused spur behind the switch ie in the plaster wall? Thanks

 

[sparkwright]

At the moment the lights are on 2 amp round 3 pin plugs that use 2amp round 3 pin sockets that are powered from a switched socket. Would it be possible/ safe/ legal to hide the new fused spur behind the switch ie in the plaster wall? Thanks

Nope.

 

[sparkwright]

Fuses and switches should be accessible, and seen.
You can fit the fused spur unit next to or instead of the socket.

Assuming the socket wiring will allow another accessory connected to it.

The cable between the socket and the fused spur unit should be 2.5 mm2 or greater. Again, depends how the socket wiring has been done, and in what size cable.

Perhaps you can fit the fused spur somewhere else.

Grid systems are available which allow you to fit various 'modules', ie fuse, switch, socket outlet (not often), to fit on one faceplate.

Is the existing socket flushed in?
Is the socket a single or double?
Is the decorating the problem here?

 

[majormacmason]

Didn't think so!! I'll try again... if I was to run a spur from a socket on the ring circuit, rater than creating a new junction on the cable, could I get away without the FCU?

 

[sparkwright]

You need to provide the lighting cables with some form of 3-5 amp fuse.

Socket wiring will not provide this without a FCU.

The alternative is to feed the lighting cable from a lighting circuit, or from a 5-6 amp fuse at the consumer unit.

 

[ricicle]

You need the FCU to fuse down as you will be reducing the CSA of cable when you create the lighting circuit. The ring circuit is normally protected at 32A but no cable of the type normally used for lighting circuits is rated at 32A

 

[majormacmason]

Thanks Sparkwright. The wall studs behind the plaster make running a cable from the socket up to the switch difficult, as I was trying to avoid decorating issues! As the ring circuit runs right behind the light switch, I was hoping there would be fairly easy solution ... and without having a FCU on display next to the switch. However I like your idea of a fused spur unit next to - or even instead of - the socket. Is there such a thing as a single socket that's "twinned" with a connection unit and fits into an existing 2 gang recess box?

 

[sparkwright]

Is there a way of changing the lightswitch for a switched FCU, powered from the socket wiring? Or do you already have a light switch controlling a ceiling light?

If there is a ceiling light switch, is there a neutral at the switch? This will be in a connector block, NOT to be confused with the switched live wire.

Can the FCU go on the other side of the wall?

How we all wish there was a unit the size of a double socket incorporating a FCU and a socket outlet.

Send pictures if you can.

 

[OwainDIYer]

Would it be possible to have the FCU at a discreet and electrically convenient location and use a wireless switch to provide the day-to-day user switching?