Lining paper won't stay up

[Carlnorwich]

I've been trying to hang 1400 lining paper onto my ceiling, but it won't stay up.

It's a newly plastered ceiling (over Artex), the ceiling has dried out, I have sized it once (which dried in about 20 minutes).

When I pushed the paper onto the ceiling it just fell straight off again - no adhesion or grab at all.

I've just felt the lining paper which was pasted about 20 minutes ago but it feels like there's hardly any paste on the paper - it's like it's absorbed it all.

I definately mixed the correct ratio for the paste (it did seem a little thinner than I've experienced before (many years ago). I applied a lot of paste to the paper.

 

[sixeighth]

You should be able to tell from the paste before it's applied to the paper - it should be nice and thick for 1400. Once the strip has been pasted liberally and left for around five minutes you should be able to wipe a good fingerfull off the pasted side. Sounds like the mixture is too light or it's been left on the paper too long. Might be worth going one sheet at a time until you're up and running - you need plenty of 'slip' when working with pasted paper, especially on ceilings.

 

[Robbie uk]

You definatley dont want to wait 20 minutes for lining paper to soak. About 5 minutes is fine. Plenty of paste on the ceiling to help it slip into position. Paste will always dry out but not enough and it wont stick.

 

[opps]

20 minutes does sound too long. I also paste the ceilings at the same time- less need to worry about the paste on the paper having dried.

Use a roller to apply the paste to the paper- you get even coverage. Also concertina the paper into strips about 12 inches long and put tight creases into the paper. This makes it much easier to paper ceilings on your own. The creases will disappear when the paper dries. To help to support the paper as I unfold it it use a very wide "putty" knife to hold up the bit that I just unfolded.

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Pai...ors+Tools/Vinyl+Smoother+12/d150/sd160/p87311

I also use the "knife" to smooth the paper. Sadly most are sold without the plastic blade sheath so be careful about the edges ripping the paper.

Never crease any other kinds of paper

 

[Richard C]

It's a newly plastered ceiling (over Artex), the ceiling has dried out, I have sized it once (which dried in about 20 minutes).

Why on earth are you sticking lining paper onto a newly plastered ceiling it has it's uses I suppose but it’s hideous stuff at the best of times.

 

[opps]

It's a newly plastered ceiling (over Artex), the ceiling has dried out, I have sized it once (which dried in about 20 minutes).

Why on earth are you sticking lining paper onto a newly plastered ceiling it has it's uses I suppose but it’s hideous stuff at the best of times.

I like lining paper but wont use it on a newly plastered ceiling if properly plastered. I am guessing that the OP has a reason for lining.

I routinely line plastered walls- I prefer the texture and the fact that it is warmer to the touch. Other advantages include hiding possible hairline settlement/drying cracks. A well lined wall will always be flatter than a plastered one.

Ultimately it is a matter of preference though

 

[Richard C]

A well lined wall will always be flatter than a plastered one.

Not on one of mine it wouldn’t

If it’s been done properly it will be perfectly flat & smooth with no marks whatsoever & if it isn’t, my advise would be either don’t pay or ask for a refund. Problem is some who call themselves plasterers now don’t actually seem to be able to plaster without huge amounts of filler or resorting to an orbital sander which is the worse thing you can do as it ruins the texture.

 

[opps]

A well lined wall will always be flatter than a plastered one.

Not on one of mine it wouldn’t

If it’s been done properly it will be perfectly flat & smooth with no marks whatsoever & if it isn’t, my advise would be either don’t pay or ask for a refund. Problem is some who call themselves plasterers now don’t actually seem to be able to plaster without huge amounts of filler or resorting to an orbital sander which is the worse thing you can do as it ruins the texture.

Fair enough.

I expect a v good finish on new plasterboard but expect some brush/trowel marks when they are reskimming

 

[roughcaster]

A well lined wall will always be flatter than a plastered one.

Yep, agree as usual R'rd C,,,, if a walls been plastered properly, it's a waste of money, to then go and paper over them.

Roughcaster.

 

[opps]

Ok...

Backtracking v slightly.

I can line a wall apply two coats of emulsion, sand it flat and apply two coats with floetrol and get a flatter finish that if I went straight onto the plaster (applied by a competant but not super expert plasterer).

Honest- Am not taking the p!ss but there will be even less orange peel

Mind you I have only had a hand of clients willing to pay for such a superflat finish

 

[Richard C]

I expect a v good finish on new plasterboard but expect some brush/trowel marks when they are reskimming

Just for info, there really shouldn’t be any difference; obviously boards are easier to skim but, if done correctly, the finish should be equally as good on either.

 

[opps]

I expect a v good finish on new plasterboard but expect some brush/trowel marks when they are reskimming

Just for info, there really shouldn’t be any difference; obviously boards are easier to skim but, if done correctly, the finish should be equally as good on either.

Hi ya

Should have clarified my own point- I am making allowances for having to plaster behind rad pipes, around sockets and where the walls meet the skirting and cornice rather than the bulk of the wall space.

I am demanding of my plasterers but I am not that precious

 

[Richard C]

Ok...
I can line a wall apply two coats of emulsion, sand it flat and apply two coats with floetrol and get a flatter finish that if I went straight onto the plaster (applied by a competant but not super expert plasterer).

Honest- Am not taking the p!ss but there will be even less orange peel

Mind you I have only had a hand of clients willing to pay for such a superflat finish

Can’t really advise on the floetrol as I’ve not used it. I can obviously decorate but am not a trade decorator but can say in all honesty that the brush/roller marks in the paint you put on will make a decently troweled (but not over polished) finish look worse; if your not getting that standard perhaps you should look around for a different spread

I am making allowances for having to plaster behind rad pipes, around sockets and where the walls meet the skirting and cornice rather than the bulk of the wall space.

Again, rad pipes, architrave, skirting & cornice etc are an occupational hazard on refurbishment work & should not cause any problems if your spread is any good. I always lift switch or socket plates &, for safety, I will remove them completely if live; I block & sandwich bag the cables into the back box. It adds very little time to the job but makes a huge difference to the look; I would never skim around switch or socket plates though, it’s a bodge.

No intention to criticise but, personally, I would be a little more demanding of your spreads; HNY

 

[Carlnorwich]

Why did I paper over a newly skimmed ceiling? I was waiting for someone to ask that. Two reasons;

1/. My friend skimmed the ceiling, the finish was good but not perfect

2/. I have some time on my hands at the moment so I decided to practice my paper hanging skills. I'm glad I did, I learnt a lot from it

Thanks for all your help.