Lintel for doorway into garage (limited space for lintel)

[qwertqaz]

I'm currently looking at knocking through from the hallway into the garage on a two bed semi detached property. Any idea which type of lintel(s) would be suitable? From the garage side (which looks like the external wall / outer leaf of the house), for the right door height it looks like only a 65mm x 100mm lintel will fit easily due to the pipe and truss above (looking at 1200mm length). Would this be suitable? Any advice would be great!

Outside photo shows the outer wall that goes down into the garage. Inside photo shows that wall and where I've started stitch drilling (see space limitations above).

 

[Dereekoo]

A Naylor ER1 lintel has an unfactored load capacity of 3.46kn/m . Assuming it only has to support the triangular load of brickwork above the lintel which will be in the region of 20 x 0.6 x 0.1 = 1.2kn/m (conservative) you will have a FOS of above 3. I assume the house wall is double skin so you need 2

 

[qwertqaz]

A Naylor ER1 lintel has an unfactored load capacity of 3.46kn/m . Assuming it only has to support the triangular load of brickwork above the lintel which will be in the region of 20 x 0.6 x 0.1 = 1.2kn/m (conservative) you will have a FOS of above 3. I assume the house wall is double skin so you need 2

Thank you! The joists in the house run parallel to that wall, so sufficient in this case? I had a look at some angle lintels that would fit as well but don't think there's much difference strength wise, if the concrete one will do the job.

 

[Dereekoo]

Thank you! The joists in the house run parallel to that wall, so sufficient in this case? I had a look at some angle lintels that would fit as well but don't think there's much difference strength wise, if the concrete one will do the job.

If the joists run parallel then you just have the basic triangular corbelled brickwork load so any lintel with a loading factor 2 to 3 times greater than the brick load would be OK. An angle iron, say 100 x 100 may well be adequate and possibly simpler to slide into place but would need to be structurally verified

 

[qwertqaz]

If the joists run parallel then you just have the basic triangular corbelled brickwork load so any lintel with a loading factor 2 to 3 times greater than the brick load would be OK. An angle iron, say 100 x 100 may well be adequate and possibly simpler to slide into place but would need to be structurally verified

That makes sense, appreciate your help!

 

[qwertqaz]

After getting the first lintel in (found a steel, much easier to lift), the inner leaf is what looks like thermalites / aerated blocks. Any idea how to put the lintel onto those? I've read that you're not supposed to bear onto cut blocks.

 

[^woody^]

I've read that you're not supposed to bear onto cut blocks

Stop reading stuff from wherever you read that.

Use a reciprocating saw or a wood saw to cut the slot for the lintel and slide the lintel in. No banging with a hammer and chisel. You may not need the prop, unless there are joists above, then prop those instead.

Once the lintel is set, use the saw to cut the doorway sides.

If those beads are loose, you may want to seal the cavity now to stop all those insulation beads dropping out, or you will end up with a cold spot above.

 

[qwertqaz]

Stop reading stuff from wherever you read that.

Use a reciprocating saw or a wood saw to cut the slot for the lintel and slide the lintel in. No banging with a hammer and chisel. You may not need the prop, unless there are joists above, then prop those instead.

Once the lintel is set, use the saw to cut the doorway sides.

If those beads are loose, you may want to seal the cavity now to stop all those insulation beads dropping out, or you will end up with a cold spot above.

You've put my mind at ease, thank you, will crack on with those steps!