Lintel RSJ Advice

[IanNE]

I'm having an extension built, but someone has put the idea forward about making the front room bigger, as the garage was going to be pretty big to start with.

I've attached a pdf with the proposed position of the rsj shown with red dashed lines, any advice and suggestions, for something of this lengh? Nibs, etc

Also on the left hand side is the opening for the kitchen, I wanted to fit a catnic or other lintel for this, but may have to use an rsj, problem I had also was the staircase landing protrudes into the kitchen ceiling at a lower point and the joists for this are supported in the wall I'm removing, so I'd have to use some form of joist hanger also...

Any suggestions on this one too?

Thanks

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/59107343/lintelexample.pdf

 

[RonnyRaygun]

You would need a big, heavy beam to span that distance. Possibly something like a 305 UC, or deeper but lighter if you don't mind a larger downstand.

You obviously aren't going to want large nibs sticking out into your room so you might be better off having a goalpost frame put in. This will also help with stability, but it may well need improved foundations too under the posts.

Looking at the drawing, you've got a beam halfway down the garage bearing onto what I assume to be a new wall? You could run that beam to the proposed beam and have a stud wall there as long as you have sufficient fire protection to the stud wall.

 

[IanNE]

You would need a big, heavy beam to span that distance. Possibly something like a 305 UC, or deeper but lighter if you don't mind a larger downstand.

You obviously aren't going to want large nibs sticking out into your room so you might be better off having a goalpost frame put in. This will also help with stability, but it may well need improved foundations too under the posts.

Looking at the drawing, you've got a beam halfway down the garage bearing onto what I assume to be a new wall? You could run that beam to the proposed beam and have a stud wall there as long as you have sufficient fire protection to the stud wall.

Is this span practically possible, also I'd prefer if it is to have the beam recessed into the roof, so joists would need to be notched I takee it..

I'd prefer no large nibs, what are goal post style frames? Also would this span put a huge load on the remaining small wall area, would or could it lead too subsidence or any form of damage?

The beam along the garage was to split the joist loads of that area, because I would of had to use really deep engineered I-beam wood joists, 360mm, splitting the difference with a beam it I can use 200 joists instead...

As you can see I'm unsure about it all, a bigger room would of been nice, as the garage is going to be a large size anyway, but I think with what I would need it becomes overcomplicated...and I'm just a little apprehensive about leaving the house structure open to problems..

 

[RonnyRaygun]

Yes, it's possible to span that distance but as said before, you might need quite a heavy beam, depending on exactly what it will be carrying.

Depending on its depth, you might not be able to fully recess the beam into the ceiling so you might still end up with a downstand.

A goal post frame is, erm, a frame in the shape of a goalpost! So a beam sitting on a column either end. It could be designed to aid with lateral stability of the building as you are removing an entire side wall. However, you would possibly also need new pad foundations for the columns, depending on the loads and what the current foundations are like.

It's definitely more work and cost than leaving the wall where it is, so you've got to weigh up the benefits of the extra living space against the cost and reduced garage space.

 

[IanNE]

It would be a nice option, seems it would be too much hassle to have this done, without it looking a mess, beams dropping below ceiling height, etc

 

[RonnyRaygun]

You could just take the beam half way and make the lounge bigger without making the dining room any bigger. Smaller loads would mean you could probably keep the existing foundations and the beam would probably fit within the floor depth. The remaining wall would be plenty for lateral stability.

You'd be left with an alcove in the garage which could be used for storage or whatever.

 

[IanNE]

You could just take the beam half way and make the lounge bigger without making the dining room any bigger. Smaller loads would mean you could probably keep the existing foundations and the beam would probably fit within the floor depth. The remaining wall would be plenty for lateral stability.

You'd be left with an alcove in the garage which could be used for storage or whatever.

I thought about this Ronny, it seems the most suitable option... Only her indoors wanted the full span if we went for it, as she wanted a room at the back with central doors in a partition, this way the doors will not be central in one the rooms... She will have to make do...

My only worry is that actual wall I want to remove had a crack running at a slight angle from top to bottom in the inner leaf, within the block work.. the outside leaf at this same point is fine.. It just made me worry that maybe the foundation was weak at some point or maybe settlement... do you thinking opening it up as you suggested would cause any problems due to this?

Thanks

 

[RonnyRaygun]

My only worry is that actual wall I want to remove had a crack running at a slight angle from top to bottom in the inner leaf, within the block work.. the outside leaf at this same point is fine.. It just made me worry that maybe the foundation was weak at some point or maybe settlement... do you thinking opening it up as you suggested would cause any problems due to this?

Thanks

Won't really matter if the whole wall is removed and columns put on new footings.

But if the existing footings can be reused, then you will need to dig a trial pit where the crack meets the footing. This should show if there is a crack in the footing itself indicating differential settlement has taken place. Not so likely as no crack in the external leaf. It will also show if there are any roots that have got under the footings.

Really you need to call out an SE to get some advice.

 

[tony1851]

Ronny it's time you sent the OP an invoice for this!

 

[RonnyRaygun]

Ronny it's time you sent the OP an invoice for this!

A "thanks" would be enough

 

[IanNE]

I did say thanks for the advice...

Thanks again

 

[RonnyRaygun]

I did say thanks for the advice...

Thanks again

There's a thanks button...but it doesn't matter