Location of switches?

[gazandlucy]

RF lighting can i ask where you bought the middle oven/fan socket in your picture please?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

http://www.enlabel.co.uk/

 

[gazandlucy]

Why use chunky switches?

These do the hob, oven and extractor hood.

RF could u explain the arrangement here please? the right switch controls the middle oven? surely the middle one isnt a 45a AND 13a controling oven AND fan?
Also where u buy the units from?

thanks

 

[ban-all-sheds]

RF could u explain the arrangement here please? the right switch controls the middle oven?

More likely to be the hob.

surely the middle one isnt a 45a AND 13a controling oven AND fan?

Why would you need a 45A switch for either an oven or a fan?

Also where u buy the units from?

http://www.enlabel.co.uk/

 

[gazandlucy]

RF could u explain the arrangement here please? the right switch controls the middle oven?

More likely to be the hob.

surely the middle one isnt a 45a AND 13a controling oven AND fan?

Why would you need a 45A switch for either an oven or a fan?

Also where u buy the units from?

http://www.enlabel.co.uk/

You havnt understand the question....45amp switch for an oven FCU ....and how can u have an oven and hood isolation switch on the same socket? if u look.......


And the web site only engraves the sockets.....it doesnt SUPPLY the chrome flush ones in the piccy

any one know where to buy the sockets please?

 

[gazandlucy]

Why use chunky switches?

These do the hob, oven and extractor hood.

How can the middle FCU (which i presume is a single unit) control 2 loads? If the hood only needs 13a and the oven upto 45a?

 

[ColJack]

wow.. big oven you have..
most are happy with a 13A supply for a single and a 20A for a double..
the fusing ( if needed ) will be done at the above counter socket or FCU for the hood, and the undercounter connection for the oven..

put the switch on a 20A radial and all's happy..

 

[gazandlucy]

sorry not making my self clear....

How can the MIDDLE FCU control 2 units ( oven and hood ) as labelled?

 

[ColJack]

oh jeezz..

it's NOT an FCU...
it's a 2G grid switch fitted with 20A switches on a 20A ( or less ) radial..

the fusing down is done at the connection points for the items..

ovens don't take that much current, it's the hobs that do...

 

[ban-all-sheds]

And the web site only engraves the sockets.....it doesnt SUPPLY the chrome flush ones in the piccy

any one know where to buy the sockets please?

You're quite right - I do apologise, even though I was just repeating what RF said in anoither post when someone asked where he got them.

So I'll apologise for getting shirty, and RF can apologise for misleading us all...

I think they're actually off-the-shelf MK Edge Grid modules & plates.

e.g. http://www.mkelectric.co.uk/products/item.asp?itemid=5366&rangeid=1014

 

[RF Lighting]

Sorry missed this thread.

The big red switch on the right is a 45A DP switch for a 7.5kW induction hob.

The middle switch is indeed a 2 gang MK grid switch. The modules and the flate plate from the 'edge' range of accesories.

The switch is supplied from a dedicated 16A radial circuit feeding just those two appliances.

The sockets behind the appliances were from enlabel, but they are not shown in this thread

 

[Henriette88]

I have similar issue, I am planning a kitchen which in two tall housing units will have one full size oven, one combi micro, one steam oven, one coffee machine and one warming drawer.
Do I need isoluation switch for each.
Miele -H4641BPK - 3.5KW - min fuse 16
Miele - DG4060-G - Built In Steam Oven 2.5KW, min fuse 13
Miele - H4020BM - combi oven - 2.2KW, min fuse 13
Miele - CVA4080 - coffee - 2.3KW, min fuse 13
Miele - EGW4060 - 29SS - warming drawer - 420W

Next to this I have a large american fridge, another switch!

I really would not like to have 5+ plugs above the worktop next to this, but if this is required then I will have to I suppose.
A qualified electrician is doing the job, and is prepared to hide them in cupboard if I request so, any advice would be gratefully recieved.

 

[bernardgreen]

The kitchen is basically a work place and some potentially dangerous processes ( known as cooking ) take place there.

So for me safety is paramount.

Level 1 is safe operation of the installation. Correct sized cable and fittings.

Second level is the ability to safely isolate equipment for planned or routine cleaning, maintainance and repair.

Third level is rapid and safe emergency isolation in the event of an accident. That isolation may have to be done by someone who is not used to the layout of the kitchen.

Those decide for me where the various switches and isolators should be fitted.

 

[mikhailfaradayski]

The kitchen is basically a work place and some potentially dangerous processes ( known as cooking ) take place there.

IMO, there is more chance of danger through eating it than preparing it. (hope Mrs.Faradayski doesn't read this )

So for me safety is paramount.

Agreed

Level 1 is safe operation of the installation. Correct sized cable and fittings.

Agreed

Second level is the ability to safely isolate equipment for planned or routine cleaning, maintainance and repair.

Agreed

Third level is rapid and safe emergency isolation in the event of an accident. That isolation may have to be done by someone who is not used to the layout of the kitchen.

hmm, agree, sort of, possibly , depends somewhat on the needs of the installation users/risk assessment.

Those decide for me where the various switches and isolators should be fitted.

Agreed, logical thinking

 

[bongos]

I really would not like to have 5+ plugs above the worktop next to this, but if this is required then I will have to I suppose.
A qualified electrician is doing the job, and is prepared to hide them in cupboard if I request so, any advice would be gratefully recieved.

For the fixed items you could run a grid switch formation (like the middle socket in RF's picture but more gangs if necessary) and have the grid switches controlling a socket below counter level. Or instead of grid switches you could have individual DP switches controlling a socket directly below the worktop.

Items above 2kW are often advised to have a dedicated supply.

You will need some sockets above the counter obviously.

But ask your electrician - that's what you're paying them for!