Loft boarding, with legs, and cross battens...?

Joined
29 Dec 2014
Messages
119
Reaction score
7
Location
Wiltshire
Country
United Kingdom
Time to sort the loft space out.

Have an area of 4.8 x 3m which I can board, leaving 1m or so around the eves for ventilation. Roof also new with breathable felt.

I think I want to use loft-legs and a raised floor with extra insulation underneath, again leaving room for good airflow under the floor. That's all fine :) I'm not worried about load bearing as its all been fine with me walking around with loads of badly placed stuff - so boarding wisely will help spread load.

However the loft boards are 1220x320 - and my 1930's house joists are not accurately placed, but around 380mm centers, so boards would have to go length-wise across multiple joists.

Using loft legs I'd have to trim each board by 80mm or so to span 3 joists (with 4 legs touching) on each "row". Trimming each board seems a right faff but its either that or having the joins mid gap unsupported?

So was thinking about putting legs on each joist at 320mm spaces (board width), then screwing some 3x1.5 (68x38) lengths to the top of the legs at 90' to the joist direction. Then placing boards on top of this as it'd not matter where the board joins were as they'd be supported by the 3x2 over the small gap between legs.

Apart from cost of 3x2 (£40) and extra height I can't see a downside to this, should be stronger when screwed down and spread load across more legs. (I'm also not concerned over the cost of the legs, its within my budget)


But I can't see any reference to anyone doing this? Which usually means its a brilliant and unique idea, or I'm missing something! :)

Comments/thoughts welcome :)




Other thoughts from searching:-
- I was planning to, and I see people do use cross battens instead of legs. After dwelling for a while I'm erring away from this as this would greatly reduce air-flow under the floor - and having suffered condensation previously I don't want any risks and want maximum loft airflow. I feel the high legs will always give a larger free-flow gap for air
- Legs are discussed as not distributing weight as much, but think with 8x legs under each 1.2x0.3m board the weight is distributed enough, excluding weight shared across battens. Current joists cope with me walking on joists and boxes balanced badly, so don't think legs would cause issues for me
 
Last edited:
Sponsored Links
Nothing wrong with that plan at all. Your house is a similar age to mine which - normally - means the timber used in the loft is capable of taking a good amount of 'stuff' spread out up there. My joists are fairly evenly spaced but the measurements between them do drift a bit so I did exactly what you're planning; purely to overcome joints meeting in-between the legs. I felt it was better to use the extra timber anyway as it gave the boards more strength and stops the legs from moving independently.

Definitely worth bringing up all the wires from under the boards and insulation if you haven't already! You'll thank yourself if ever you need to re-wire, add extra lights, etc.
 
Yeah, the house is pretty (very) solid and timbers all "pristine" considering. Built well in those days, even if not level :)
Not sure how much slack there is in the wiring, doubt enough to bring on top of the boards if that's what you mean?. I'll only be gong over 2 rooms, one room just has a pendant (guest room) and the other (our room) LED downlights. So very low current so wasn't overly worried about covering the cables from that heat/current side. PIV system and above other rooms not affected, and no other cables.
I was planning *not* to lay the boarding in brick-pattern, just in straight lines with 1mm gap between each row, screwed, thinking that if I needed to access lighting in the future, it'd be simply a case of moving some stuff and being able to take out an entire row of flooring quite easily. (the boarding is T&G one way, not the other. But would still be solid if screwed to the battens)

Thanks for your comment and being the pioneer :)
 
Oh yes built well, but rarely level!

With the cables I meant purely just for future access to them -- it's only an electric shower cable which is a heat risk given the current going through it. However I think with your plan to leave a gap between the boards so they can be removed you've covered the access problem.

I'd say go ahead with it. Heaviest stuff over a supporting wall of course. I'm glad I did mine in the spring and not now as 10 days ago it got to 44 degrees in the loft..!
 
Sponsored Links
Ha :) All ordered, thanks, Yes, may be in my "to do when cooler" pile of jobs.
No electric shower, biggest consumption is 500W on the PIV heater, and these cables are not being covered.
Looking forward to it and seeing what hidden delights the loft holds :)
 
It's a feel-good job when it's done and it gets you in the good books when stuff can get put up there! When I first ventured up I found a Banjo bar wrapper with an expiry date of 1984 on it, plus a layer of original insulation in 1940s newspaper and a Spice Girls CD.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Back
Top